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Category: Auto Tips

Renault Duster: Checking The Condition And Replacing The Timing Belt

2024

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Video: Renault Duster: Checking The Condition And Replacing The Timing Belt

Video: Renault Duster: Checking The Condition And Replacing The Timing Belt
Video: Renault Duster 2015 Engine Timing Belt Replacement 2024, March
Renault Duster: Checking The Condition And Replacing The Timing Belt
Renault Duster: Checking The Condition And Replacing The Timing Belt
Anonim

Preparatory work on cars with engines 1.6 and 2.0 are the same, and then each work is shown separately. Since the spark plugs also need to be changed during routine maintenance, it is better to combine these operations, because it will be easier to rotate the crankshaft when checking the belt. The surface of the toothed part of the belt should be free of creases, cracks, undercuts of teeth and delamination of the fabric from rubber. The reverse side of the belt should not have wear, exposing the cord, and no signs of burning. On the end surfaces of the belt there should be no delamination and disintegration. The belt must be replaced if any traces of oil are found on it.

To assess the condition and replace the timing belt, the right support of the power unit should be dismantled.

Remove the protection of the power unit and the right mud guard of the engine compartment. How to perform these operations can be found in the materials “ Replacing the Renault Duster coolant” and “Replacing the Renault Duster fog lamp”.

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Вставляем между поддоном картера двигателя и подрамником деревянный брусок так, чтобы правая опора силового агрегата перестала удерживать вес агрегата. Для этого широкой монтажной лопаткой приподнимаем двигатель
Вставляем между поддоном картера двигателя и подрамником деревянный брусок так, чтобы правая опора силового агрегата перестала удерживать вес агрегата. Для этого широкой монтажной лопаткой приподнимаем двигатель

We insert a wooden block between the engine crankcase and the subframe so that the right support of the power unit ceases to support the weight of the unit. To do this, we raise the engine with a wide mounting blade. We insert a wooden block between the engine crankcase and the subframe so that the right support of the power unit ceases to support the weight of the unit. To do this, we raise the engine with a wide mounting blade. We insert a wooden block between the engine crankcase and the subframe so that the right support of the power unit ceases to support the weight of the unit.

2278-6-05-07

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We remove from the holders located on the bracket of the support, the fuel supply pipe to the ramp and the fuel vapor supply to the receiver.

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We take out the holder of a plait of wires from an aperture of an arm of a support.

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Using the “16” head, we unscrew the three bolts securing the support bracket to the upper timing drive cover.

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Using the same tool, unscrew the three bolts securing the support to the body.

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We remove the right support of the power unit.

Engine Timing Belt Replacement 1.6

timing 1-6

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The timing gear drive: 1 - a gear pulley of a cranked shaft; 2 - timing belt; 3 - roller tensioner; 4 - a gear pulley of a camshaft of a drive of final valves; 5 - a gear pulley of a camshaft of a drive of inlet valves; 6 - supporting roller; 7 - a gear pulley of the coolant pump

For clarity, operations are shown on a dismantled engine.

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Using the “13” head, unscrew the three bolts and two nuts securing the upper timing drive cover.

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Remove the top timing drive cover.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with the “by 18” head for the bolt securing the drive pulley of the auxiliary units and visually evaluate the condition of the timing belt.

The belt tension can be estimated by the location of the indicators of the automatic belt tensioner.

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Under normal belt tension, the movable pointer should coincide with the notch of the stationary pointer of the tensioner (shown for illustration when the lower timing cover is removed).

If the moving pointer is offset from the fixed:

- counterclockwise - the belt tension is not enough;

- clockwise - the belt will be pulled.

In both cases, adjust the belt tension.

2271-3-8-06-05

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To adjust the belt tension in the lower cover of the timing drive, a hatch is made, which is closed by a cover (for clarity, it is shown on the removed cover).

Pulling up, remove the hatch cover.

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After loosening the tightening nut of the tensioner mounting nut with a “13” key, turn the roller clockwise by tightening the “6” hexagon, pulling the belt.

While holding the roller in position, tighten the nut securing the tensioner. By turning the crankshaft two turns clockwise for the bolt securing the drive pulley of the auxiliary units, we again check the belt tension and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment. Install the removed parts in the reverse order.

To replace the timing belt, remove the auxiliary drive belt.

When loosening the bolt securing the drive pulley of the auxiliary units, it is necessary to block the crankshaft from turning. To do this, the assistant must engage fifth gear and depress the brake pedal. If, at the same time, it is not possible to unscrew the pulley bolt due to cranking, the shaft must be locked. To access the flywheel ring gear, the crankshaft position sensor must be removed.

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To do this, unscrew the two bolts with a "10" head.

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We remove the sensor.

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We insert through the window in the clutch housing the mounting blade between the teeth of the flywheel ring, designed to start the engine with a starter.

Attention! Do not damage the surface of the teeth necessary for the operation of the crankshaft position sensor (they are much larger)

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Using the “18” head, we unscrew the bolt of the auxiliary drive drive pulley.

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We take out a bolt with a washer.

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Remove the drive pulley auxiliary units.

If it is difficult to remove the pulley, we evenly pry it from different sides with a mounting blade.

Remove the upper (see above) and lower timing drive covers.

2271-3-8-06-07

Для снятия нижней крышки привода ГРМ головкой «на 8» отворачиваем четыре болта ее крепления
Для снятия нижней крышки привода ГРМ головкой «на 8» отворачиваем четыре болта ее крепления

To remove the lower cover of the timing drive, use the “8” head to turn off the four bolts of its fastening. To remove the lower cover of the timing drive, use the “8” head to turn off the four bolts of its fastening. To remove the lower cover of the timing drive, use the “8” head to turn off the four bolts of its fastening.

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Снимаем нижнюю крышку
Снимаем нижнюю крышку

Remove the bottom cover. Remove the bottom cover. Remove the bottom cover.

There are no special alignment marks on the pulleys of the crankshaft and camshafts.

In order not to disrupt the timing, before removing the timing belt, it is necessary to set the crankshaft and camshafts to the TDC (top dead center) compression stroke of the 1st cylinder.

To crank the crankshaft, we screw in place the bolt for securing the auxiliary drive pulley by installing a spacer between the bolt washer and the shaft end (sleeve or set of washers).

Attention! Starting from this stage, work can be done in two ways

The first method is “academic”, accompanied by the manufacture of the device and the need to purchase two plugs for the holes in the cylinder head removed by the destructive method.

The second method is “folk”, which allows to carry out work with minimal labor, but requires the presence of an assistant and high thoroughness of work, followed by careful verification of the result. A prerequisite for carrying out work in this way is your confidence that no one has disassembled the engine even to a small extent. Then all the details will be installed in the "factory" positions.

The first way to replace the timing belt of the 1.6 Renault Duster engine

To determine the position of the camshafts, two rubber-metal plugs must be removed from the holes in the left end of the cylinder head. We remove the air cavity resonator.

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В центре заглушки (резиновом массиве) протыкаем отверткой отверстие
В центре заглушки (резиновом массиве) протыкаем отверткой отверстие

In the center of the plug (rubber array) we pierce a hole with a screwdriver. In the center of the plug (rubber array) we pierce a hole with a screwdriver. In the center of the plug (rubber array) we pierce a hole with a screwdriver.

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Действуя отверткой, как рычагом, извлекаем заглушку из отверстия в головке блока цилиндров
Действуя отверткой, как рычагом, извлекаем заглушку из отверстия в головке блока цилиндров

Acting as a lever with a screwdriver, we remove the plug from the hole in the cylinder head. Acting as a lever with a screwdriver, we remove the plug from the hole in the cylinder head. Acting as a lever with a screwdriver, we remove the plug from the hole in the cylinder head.

Similarly, we extract another stub.

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We rotate the crankshaft clockwise for the bolt of the auxiliary drive drive pulley until the grooves on the ends of the camshafts occupy a horizontal position (they are parallel to the plane of the connector cover and cylinder head) and will be shifted upward relative to the axes of the camshafts.

To fix the camshafts when replacing the belt from a metal plate with a thickness of 5 mm, a device should be made (see sketch).

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Tool for fixing camshafts. Tool for fixing camshafts. Tool for fixing camshafts.

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Устанавливаем приспособление в пазы валов
Устанавливаем приспособление в пазы валов

We install the device in the grooves of the shafts. We install the device in the grooves of the shafts. We install the device in the grooves of the shafts.

To check whether the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, a hole with an M10 thread is provided in the cylinder block, into which a special mounting pin with a threaded part length of 75 mm must be screwed. When the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, the finger should abut against the milled area on the cheek of the crankshaft and lock the shaft when trying to turn it clockwise.

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Головкой «Е-14» выворачиваем технологическую пробку из резьбового отверстия в блоке цилиндров, расположенного на передней стороне блока, в районе 1-го цилиндра - под датчиком сигнализатора аварийного давления масла (для наглядности показано на снятом двигателе)
Головкой «Е-14» выворачиваем технологическую пробку из резьбового отверстия в блоке цилиндров, расположенного на передней стороне блока, в районе 1-го цилиндра - под датчиком сигнализатора аварийного давления масла (для наглядности показано на снятом двигателе)

Using the E-14 head, we turn the process plug out of the threaded hole in the cylinder block located on the front side of the block, in the region of the 1st cylinder - under the sensor of the emergency oil pressure warning device (for clarity, shown on the removed engine). Using the E-14 head, we turn the process plug out of the threaded hole in the cylinder block located on the front side of the block, in the region of the 1st cylinder - under the sensor of the emergency oil pressure warning device (for clarity, shown on the removed engine). Using the E-14 head, we turn the process plug out of the threaded hole in the cylinder block located on the front side of the block, in the region of the 1st cylinder - under the sensor of the emergency oil pressure warning device (for clarity, shown on the removed engine).

As an installation finger, you can use a bolt with an M10 thread and a length of about 100 mm.

Screw two M10 nuts onto the bolt and lock them so that the length of the threaded part is 68 mm.

The fixture made - the installation finger is screwed into the threaded hole of the cylinder block.

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When the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, the mounting pin 1 will screw into the hole until the end of its thread and rest against the milled pad 2 on the crankshaft cheek (for illustration purposes, it is shown on the dismantled engine and with the crankcase removed)

In this case, the crankshaft cannot be turned clockwise.

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Ослабив ключом «на 13» затяжку гайки крепления натяжного устройства, поворачиваем ролик против часовой стрелки, уменьшая натяжение ремня привода ГРМ
Ослабив ключом «на 13» затяжку гайки крепления натяжного устройства, поворачиваем ролик против часовой стрелки, уменьшая натяжение ремня привода ГРМ

After loosening the nut “13” tightening the nuts securing the tensioning device, turn the roller counterclockwise, reducing the tension of the timing belt. After loosening the nut “13” tightening the nuts securing the tensioning device, turn the roller counterclockwise, reducing the tension of the timing belt. After loosening the nut “13” tightening the nuts securing the tensioning device, turn the roller counterclockwise, reducing the tension of the timing belt.

If when you screw in the adjusting finger, you feel that it has rested, and the end face of the nut on the finger does not come into contact with the end face of the hole in the cylinder block (there will be a gap between the nut and the boss), turn the crankshaft slightly for the pulley bolt. Then we screw the installation finger into the hole of the block to the end (until the ends of the finger nut and the boss of the hole in the block touch) and turn the crankshaft clockwise until the shaft cheek stops in the finger.

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Снимаем ремень с натяжного ролика…
Снимаем ремень с натяжного ролика…

Remove the belt from the tension roller … Remove the belt from the tension roller … Remove the belt from the tension roller …

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… and then from the pulleys of the coolant pump, crankshaft and camshafts. … and then from the pulleys of the coolant pump, crankshaft and camshafts. … and then from the pulleys of the coolant pump, crankshaft and camshafts.

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Маркировка ремня привода ГРМ (количество зубьев - 131, ширина - 25, 4 мм)
Маркировка ремня привода ГРМ (количество зубьев - 131, ширина - 25, 4 мм)

Marking the timing belt (number of teeth - 131, width - 25.4 mm). Marking the timing belt (number of teeth - 131, width - 25.4 mm). Marking the timing belt (number of teeth - 131, width - 25.4 mm).

When replacing the belt, the tensioner assembly and support roller must also be replaced.

2271-3-8-06-21

Отворачиваем гайку крепления натяжного устройства и снимаем его
Отворачиваем гайку крепления натяжного устройства и снимаем его

We unscrew the nut securing the tensioner and remove it. We unscrew the nut securing the tensioner and remove it. We unscrew the nut securing the tensioner and remove it.

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Ключом Torx T-50 отворачиваем винт крепления опорного ролика
Ключом Torx T-50 отворачиваем винт крепления опорного ролика

Using the Torx T-50 wrench, unscrew the support screw for the support roller. Using the Torx T-50 wrench, unscrew the support screw for the support roller. Using the Torx T-50 wrench, unscrew the support screw for the support roller.

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Снимаем опорный ролик и втулку ролика
Снимаем опорный ролик и втулку ролика

Remove the support roller and roller sleeve. Remove the support roller and roller sleeve. Remove the support roller and roller sleeve.

Install the new support roller in the reverse order.

When installing a new timing belt, on which arrows are marked, we orient it so that the arrows coincide with the direction of movement of the belt (clockwise).

We install a belt on the gear pulleys of the crankshaft, coolant pump and camshaft pulleys.

Then at the same time we put the belt on the roller of the tensioner and install the device on the stud of the coolant pump housing.

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При установке натяжного устройства вставляем отогнутый конец кронштейна в углубление корпуса насоса охлаждающей жидкости
При установке натяжного устройства вставляем отогнутый конец кронштейна в углубление корпуса насоса охлаждающей жидкости

When installing the tensioner, insert the bent end of the bracket into the recess of the coolant pump housing. When installing the tensioner, insert the bent end of the bracket into the recess of the coolant pump housing. When installing the tensioner, insert the bent end of the bracket into the recess of the coolant pump housing.

We turn the installation finger out of the hole in the cylinder block. We take out the plate from the grooves of the camshafts.

We rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise for the bolt securing the drive pulley of the auxiliary units until the grooves on the ends of the camshafts coincide.

We screw the installation finger into the hole of the cylinder block to check the correct installation of the crankshaft in the TDC position of 1–4 cylinders. If necessary, repeat the installation of the timing belt.

We turn the adjusting finger out of the hole in the cylinder block and put the threaded plug in place. The removed parts are installed in the reverse order.

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Легкими ударами молотка с пластмассовым бойком запрессовываем новые заглушки в отверстия головки блока цилиндров
Легкими ударами молотка с пластмассовым бойком запрессовываем новые заглушки в отверстия головки блока цилиндров

With light hammer blows with a plastic hammer, we press in new plugs in the openings of the cylinder head. With light hammer blows with a plastic hammer, we press in new plugs in the openings of the cylinder head. With light hammer blows with a plastic hammer, we press in new plugs in the openings of the cylinder head.

Further engine assembly is performed in the reverse order. We replace the bolt of fastening of the drive pulley of the auxiliary units with a new one and tighten it with a torque of 30 N · m, then turn it on 80 ± 5 °.

The second way to replace the timing belt of the 1.6 Renault Duster engine

We remind you that by this moment we have dismantled the crankshaft pulley and have free access to the entire belt and rollers.

For a bolt with washers or a sleeve that is screwed into the end of the crankshaft, in the same way as in the first method, we turn the crankshaft of the engine and, accordingly, the camshafts to the position shown in the photo below.

Focus on the position of the signs "Renault" (rhombus). At the same time, the assistant must fix the end of the piston lift in the first or fourth cylinder with a long, thin and, most importantly, clean screwdriver inserted vertically into the spark plug hole of one of the corresponding cylinders.

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В этом положении яркой краской наносим метки, однозначно определяющие взаимное расположение шкивов
В этом положении яркой краской наносим метки, однозначно определяющие взаимное расположение шкивов

In this position, we apply marks with bright paint that uniquely determine the relative position of the pulleys. In this position, we apply marks with bright paint that uniquely determine the relative position of the pulleys. In this position, we apply marks with bright paint that uniquely determine the relative position of the pulleys.

We no longer turn the crankshaft. We proceed to labeling the flywheel.

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В окне картера сцепления наносим яркой краской метку на маховик и на край окна картера сцепления
В окне картера сцепления наносим яркой краской метку на маховик и на край окна картера сцепления

In the clutch housing window, apply a bright paint mark on the flywheel and on the edge of the clutch housing window. In the clutch housing window, apply a bright paint mark on the flywheel and on the edge of the clutch housing window. In the clutch housing window, apply a bright paint mark on the flywheel and on the edge of the clutch housing window.

So we fixed the position of the crankshaft.

Further, without touching either the camshafts or the crankshafts, we carefully remove the old belt using the technology shown in the first method.

This is where some difficulty lies in wait. The fact is that camshafts, as soon as they cease to be connected by a belt, spontaneously turn at small angles under the action of valve springs. While we leave them in those positions in which they themselves stopped. In no case do not change the position of the crankshaft. We replace the rollers and, having previously put the belt on the camshaft pulleys, we ask the assistant to tighten the camshafts until the marks are precisely aligned on them.

We remind you that spontaneously shafts are trusted only at very small angles

Moreover, the pulley, which, overcoming the resistance of the springs, must be rotated clockwise (exhaust valve shaft), can be turned with a ring spanner “18” for the nut securing the pulley. (The nut will work in the direction of tightening, which is not scary.) The other pulley often does not require adjustment, and if it is needed in the direction of loosening the nut, you can turn the pulley with a simple device made of a pipe segment with holes drilled in both walls at one of ends at a distance of 55–65 mm. Insert M8 bolts of sufficient length into the holes. To increase rigidity, you can fix them with nuts. Having hooked the bolts on the pulley spokes, we cut the pipe segment like a lever and turn it to the desired angle. So, the assistant holds both pulleys in position (by marks). The belt is already on the camshaft pulleys. We put the belt on the pulleys of the crankshaft, the pump and the rollers. We check whether the crankshaft has turned over, according to the mark in the clutch housing window. Pre-tighten the tension roller and once again check the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft flywheel. A very slight discrepancy is permissible, the error on the tooth is very noticeable, in which case the belt will have to be installed again. Only if we find the alignment of all marks and tighten the tensioner mount in some sufficiently tightened position, you can very carefully, manually, turn the engine two turns of the crankshaft. If after two turns of the crankshaft all the marks coincided again, then you can proceed to fine-tune the belt tension, as described above.

A combination of the two methods is also possible. In this case, the crankshaft is still fixed with a threaded finger as described in the first method.

Engine Timing Belt Replacement 2.0

timing belt 2.0

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Timing gear drive: 1 - toothed pulley of the crankshaft 2 - timing belt; 3 - a reference roller of a belt; 4 - a tension roller of a belt; 5 - a gear pulley of a camshaft of final valves; 6 - actuator of the variable valve timing system; 7 - a pulley of the pump of a cooling liquid

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Using the “13” head, unscrew the three bolts and two nuts securing the upper timing drive cover.

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Remove the cover.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by the “by 18” head for the bolt of fastening of the drive pulley of the auxiliary units and visually assess the condition of the timing belt (see above). The belt tension can be estimated by the location of the belt tension roller indicators.

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With normal belt tension, the movable pointer 1 should coincide with the notch of the stationary pointer 2 of the tension roller (for clarity, shown with the lower timing cover removed).

If the movable pointer is slightly offset relative to the stationary counterclockwise, then the belt tension is not enough and the belt can be tightened.

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To do this, we loosen the tightening of the nuts for fastening the tension roller with a ring wrench “10” and turn the roller clockwise (tightening the belt) until the indicators are aligned with the hexagon “6”.

Holding the roller in this position, tighten the nut of its fastening. By turning the crankshaft two turns clockwise for the bolt securing the drive pulley of the auxiliary units, we again check the belt tension and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment. We install the dismantled parts in the reverse order.

To replace the timing belt, remove the auxiliary drive belt and the upper timing belt cover (see above). Before unscrewing a bolt of fastening of a pulley of a drive of a drive of auxiliary units it is necessary to block a cranked shaft from rotation. To do this, the assistant must engage the highest gear in the manual gearbox, depress the brake pedal and apply the parking brake. If, at the same time, it is not possible to unscrew the pulley bolt due to cranking, the shaft must be locked. To do this, unscrew the bolt and take out the piston of the fasteners of the plastic holder of the wiring harness to the clutch housing.

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We remove the holder with wiring harnesses from the clutch housing.

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We insert a slotted screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel crown through the window in the clutch housing (shown for clarity when the cooling system hoses are removed).

We show further operations for clarity on a dismantled engine.

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Using the “18” head, we unscrew the bolt of the auxiliary drive drive pulley.

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Remove the bolt with washer.

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Remove the drive pulley auxiliary units.

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Using the “8” head, we unscrew the five bolts securing the lower timing drive cover.

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Remove the cover.

In order not to disrupt the timing, before removing the timing belt, it is necessary to set the crankshaft and camshafts to the TDC (top dead center) compression stroke of the 1st cylinder. To crank the crankshaft, we screw in place the bolt for securing the auxiliary drive pulley by installing a spacer between the bolt and the shaft end (sleeve or set of washers). The crankshaft can also be rotated by rotating (installed in place) the front right wheel clockwise with the highest gear (5th or 6th) in the mechanical gearbox. In order to facilitate the rotation of the shaft, we turn out the spark plugs. We remove the plugs of the camshafts and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the grooves on the ends of the camshafts take a horizontal position (they are parallel to the plane of the connector cover and cylinder head) and are shifted upward relative to the axes of the camshafts (as shown on the 1.6 engine - see above).

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Turn the E-14 head out of the hole in the cylinder block …

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… screw plug.

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We insert the installation pin into the hole of the cylinder block - a rod with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of at least 70 mm (you can use a drill shank with a diameter of 8 mm).

When the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, the finger should enter the rectangular groove on the cheek of the crankshaft and block the shaft when trying to turn it in one direction or another.

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When the crankshaft is in the correct position, the keyway on its toe should be located between the two ribs of the cylinder block cover.

It is convenient to control the position of the crankshaft in the TDC of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders to set the valve timing during engine assembly (after repair) …

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… by coincidence of the hollow of the master disk (for the crankshaft position sensor) on the flywheel with the tide on the cylinder block.

We install in the grooves of the camshafts a device for fixing them (as shown on the 1.6 engine - see above). Loosen the key “10” tightening the nuts securing the tension roller.

2278-6-06-44

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Turn the “6” hexagon counterclockwise, loosening the belt tension.

2278-6-06-45

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Remove the timing belt from the toothed pulleys of the camshaft and crankshaft.

2278-6-06-46

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Marking of timing belt (number of teeth - 126, width - 25.4 mm).

When replacing the belt, the tensioning and support rollers must also be replaced.

2278-6-06-47

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Having turned away a nut of fastening, we remove a tension roller from a hairpin of a head of the block of cylinders.

2278-6-06-48

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With the “16” head, we unscrew the bolt securing the support roller to the cylinder block.

2278-6-06-49

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We remove a basic roller and its adjusting plug.

We install a new support roller in the reverse sequence and tighten the bolt of its fastening with a moment of 50 N · m.

2278-6-06-50

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When installing the tension roller, insert the bent end of its bracket into the recess of the cylinder head and bait the nut of the roller.

When installing a new timing belt (on which arrows are marked), we orient it so that the arrows coincide with the direction of movement of the belt (clockwise). We install the belt on the gear pulleys of the crankshaft and camshafts. We start the front branch of the belt under the coolant pump pulley, and the rear branch under the tension and support rollers. Adjust the tension of the timing belt (see above). We take out an adjusting finger from an aperture in the block of cylinders and we remove the adaptation for fixing of camshafts. We rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise until the grooves on the ends of the camshafts take up the desired position (see above). We check the valve timing and belt tension and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment. We replace the threaded plug and press in the new plugs of the camshafts (as shown on the 1.6 engine - see above). Further engine assembly is performed in the reverse order. The bolt of the drive pulley of the auxiliary units is replaced with a new one and tightened with the prescribed torque of 40 N · m. and then turn it 110 degrees.

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