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HE IS SAME GOGH, HE IS SAME GOSH
Lada-Largus is a copy of Dacia-Logan MCV, known in some European markets under the Renault brand name. Localization of production at AvtoVAZ has so far affected only small things. The most noticeable are the grille and nameplates on the tailgate: they feature the signature boat and the familiar name LADA. Machine units are borrowed from other Renault models - Logan, Symbol, Megana (ZR, 2008, No. 2; 2010, No. 4; 2012, No. 3). They are quite well studied both by car service mechanics and garage craftsmen. Nevertheless, we recall the main methods of service and tell about the differences.
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When replacing the spark plugs on the K4M sixteen-valve, the main thing is not to drop the fasteners of the individual ignition coils: the bolt easily slides off the head and disappears into the abyss between the intake manifold and the valve cover. If you do not fish out, then he can do trouble later by closing the circuit or wiping the plastic collector to the holes. Therefore, it is better to use a magnetic head or, at worst, stick a powerful magnet to the extension cord. Such a useful item in the household can be obtained, for example, by gutting an unnecessary computer hard drive.
To remove the connector from the individual ignition coil, press down on the trigger of the latch. If it is very resistant, slide the connector onto the reel, choosing a play, and then press
To remove the connector from the individual ignition coil, press down on the trigger of the latch. If it is very resistant, slide the connector onto the reel, choosing a play, and then press. To remove the connector from the individual ignition coil, press down on the trigger of the latch. If it is very resistant, slide the connector onto the reel, choosing a play, and then press.
On the eight-valve K7M (they put such) candles in the palm of your hand. But do not rush to rejoice: before taking on the candle key, remove dirt from the bottom of the candle wells, otherwise it will certainly crumble into the cylinders. First, we separate the coalesced sand grains with a thin hard brush or a piece of wire, and then blow them out with compressed air. Perhaps, in this discipline between the "multi-valve" motors there is complete parity.
It is easier to change the oil in the eight-valve assembly: if you remove the protective cover of the exhaust manifold by unscrewing the three nuts, you can catch the filter housing from under the hood. And even a chain puller. But it is advisable to purchase an original cup remover - it is relatively inexpensive, and it is much more convenient to work with it (and you will not have to remove the casing). Drain plug - under the tetrahedron "at 8", store such a key in advance. Access to the plug is possible through the slots in the standard protection of the engine compartment.
The oil filter (shown by an arrow) is hidden to the conscience. Even with a puller, be careful not to damage the communications. The engine number (in the circle) is better to immediately cover the anticorrosive
The oil filter (shown by an arrow) is hidden to the conscience. Even with a puller, be careful not to damage the communications. The engine number (in the circle) is better to immediately cover the anticorrosive. The oil filter (shown by an arrow) is hidden to the conscience. Even with a puller, be careful not to damage the communications. The engine number (in the circle) is better to immediately cover the anticorrosive.
The approach to the filter on the sixteen valve depends on the presence of an overpass or inspection ditch. If these conveniences are present, then it is better to remove protection, having turned off six bolts, and to come from below. No - we are selected from above by removing the fuel rail shield. In any case, there is nothing to do without a filter cup, because the communications of the power steering, generator and air conditioner interfere very much. Compared with Prior, this option gets a well-deserved deuce in the final protocol.
With the replacement of the coolant is not easier, since the system does not provide drain plugs. There is nothing left to do but remove the lower radiator nozzle, risking to burn yourself with hot slurry (more when it is hot) or breathe in poisonous vapors (from the trough they "fonet" much more than from a narrow neck - but how to get into it?). As compensation, there are fittings to remove air from the filled system, but this is little consolation.
View of the power unit with the engine compartment removed. Drain plugs of the engine and gearbox are shown by arrows, the filler plug-wing of the box is circled
View of the power unit with the engine compartment removed. Drain plugs of the engine and gearbox are shown by arrows, the filler plug-wing of the box is circled. View of the power unit with the engine compartment removed. Drain plugs of the engine and gearbox are shown by arrows, the filler plug-wing of the box is circled.
PRODUCT NUMBER ONE
With the replacement of the air filter, be sure to handle both versions. Considering that the cover is fastened with self-tapping screws, we recommend that you grope the thread before installation: by turning the fasteners counterclockwise, catch the failure and only then turn clockwise. Thus, it will be possible to preserve the thread, and, therefore, the body itself for many years.
Neither a fuel nor a cabin filter is provided - a huge minus. If without the first one you can live carelessly, as the experience of operating “Logans”, up to 200 thousand km, then sometimes you can’t do without the second on our dusty roads. Garages offer to insert a Nissan-Mikra filter (or Renault-Modus) into the body of a standard heater by cutting a window 150 × 38 mm (ЗР, 2008, No. 9). Most likely, this technology will take root at the official dealers of AvtoVAZ. But why not refinance the heating system?
Saving on a cabin filter looks ridiculous. The plane in which you want to cut through the window is shown by the arrow. What prevents it from doing this at the factory, even if it covers the hole with a plug?
Saving on a cabin filter looks ridiculous. The plane in which you want to cut through the window is shown by the arrow. What prevents it from doing this at the factory, even if it covers the hole with a plug? Saving on a cabin filter looks ridiculous. The plane in which you want to cut through the window is shown by the arrow. What prevents it from doing this at the factory, even if it covers the hole with a plug?
If you decide to install the filter yourself, take your time: slide the passenger seat back, settle down comfortably on the floor and wield with a boot knife (preferably a cut of a hacksaw blade) as carefully as possible so that you do not accidentally perforate the heater radiator. And watch your eyes from crumbling shavings! We set the first filter to the original one - 7701059997, 7701062227 or 27891-AX010, it comes complete with a plastic cover. Subsequently, you can save by buying individual non-original filter elements, of which there are a great many.
PRODUCT NUMBER TWO
It is unlikely that you will change the timing belt yourself, because for this you need to have mandrels to set the crankshaft and camshafts in the only correct position (this is more the case with K4M), as well as hang out the power unit and remove the right support. All this is not easy, so most owners find it easier to turn to specialists.
God forbid to start replacing the timing drive on a sixteen valve without such mandrels (shown on the left side of the photo). The fact is that in the connection of the shafts with the pulleys there are no dowels or pins
God forbid to start replacing the timing drive on a sixteen valve without such mandrels (shown on the left side of the photo). The fact is that in the connection of the shafts with the pulleys there are no dowels or pins. God forbid to start replacing the timing drive on a sixteen valve without such mandrels (shown on the left side of the photo). The fact is that in the connection of the shafts with the pulleys there are no dowels or pins.
Automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is only available in the version with air conditioning (applies to both engines). To remove the old belt, first dismantle the right side shield of the engine compartment and take the tensioner aside, grabbing the roller bolt with the “15” key. We check the bearings of the mounted units and the rollers themselves - supporting and tensioning: there should be no roll of balls.
On a car without an air conditioner, we tighten the belt, shifting the generator. You should not undertake this work if you do not have a flair and experience, since with a weak tension the drive will slip, and with excessive bearings of the mounted units will suffer. It is better here to trust the specialists. They use a frequency meter to control tension: holding the device in one hand, and the sensor in the other, “play” on the belt, as if on a string, with the third part of the body and at the same time manage to take readings. The vibration frequency of a correctly tensioned belt is 234 ± 11 Hz. Fine work!
The drive of mounted units on K7M (pictured) does not differ from that on K4M. Moving the tensioner behind the roller bolt clockwise, insert the pin into the holes in the sectors (shown by arrows)
The drive of mounted units on K7M (pictured) does not differ from that on K4M. Moving the tensioner behind the roller bolt clockwise, insert the pin into the holes in the sectors (shown by arrows). The drive of mounted units on K7M (pictured) does not differ from that on K4M. Moving the tensioner behind the roller bolt clockwise, insert the pin into the holes in the sectors (shown by arrows).
RIGHT IN THE ROOT
Replacing the headlights is easier on the right. Access to the left headlight is prevented by the battery; it is often better to remove it. Especially if the calloused hand and fingers are not like a pianist. Nevertheless, in most cases, it is possible to fasten the spring latch of the H4 lamp, albeit not the first time. Access to the turn signal is more or less acceptable.
To replace the lamps, the foglights will have to lie on the ground and unscrew the corner screen fasteners under the bumper. The work is dirty and terribly unpleasant, especially in slush. The question is, what prevented the provision of technological windows in the mud flaps, as was done on many French cars?
The lamp for replacing the bulbs must be removed, while tormenting yourself with the tightly tightened upper wing of the mount. The board with lamps is mounted on three latches
The lamp for replacing the bulbs must be removed, while tormenting yourself with the tightly tightened upper wing of the mount. The board with lamps is mounted on three latches. The lamp for replacing the bulbs must be removed, while tormenting yourself with the tightly tightened upper wing of the mount. The board with lamps is mounted on three latches.
Lamps for replacing lamps must be removed. It seemed that the manufacturer (Renault) provided such a lantern mount scheme that you can put up with reluctantly - to dismantle you need to unscrew two plastic lamb. But the upper one turned out to be dragged to death, even with pliers of the “cobra” type they couldn’t touch it. Fortunately, there was a recess under the Torx-30 at the end of the head. With the help of this tool, and not without a strong catch on the collectors, it was possible to overcome the restive fasteners. It seems that with the arrival of Renault Nissan on AvtoVAZ it will be necessary to get used not to a broach, but to a brace.
Igor Kozlov:
“Alas, the“small box”did not open as easily as we would like. Disappointed with poor access to the oil filter, but most importantly - the rear optics disappointed. It would be nice for the plant to normalize the tightening torque of the lantern fasteners so that we don’t break our fingers about it.”
Lada Largus: a casket with a secret
