UAZ Hunter
UAZ Hunter UAZ Hunter
HERO OF OUR TIME
Each visit to the Hunter’s engine compartment is already heroism: the hood lays on the gutter of the windshield without any fixation. Enough of a gust of wind - and it will cover you, there have been cases. Do not be too lazy to fix the hood in the raised position, for example, with a rubber band with hooks, hooking them on the doorways - you will be more whole.
UAZ Hunter
UAZ Hunter UAZ Hunter
The most popular motor is the gasoline ZMZ 409. Access to the spark plugs is excellent, but the high-voltage wires and coil outputs do not have a cylinder number marking, for which we lower the rating. It is important to remember that one coil serves the first and fourth cylinders, and the other - the second and third. Not otherwise! Candles - turnkey "on 16".
The design of the air filter is exactly like on the “Patriot” (ЗР, 2008, No. 11). But on the Hunter, you don’t need to remove the entire barrel, and that’s a plus. The cover assembly with the filter element can be removed without any problems. Having unfastened the connector from the air flow sensor and loosened the worm clamp of the corrugation, we move the parts to the side. It remains to unscrew the center nut on a turn-key “17” basis.
Air filter: the corrugation of the inlet pipe was taken to the side by removing the connector from the air flow sensor (shown by arrow). When assembling, thread the groove of the rubber gasket to the flanging of the body
Air filter: the corrugation of the inlet pipe was taken to the side by removing the connector from the air flow sensor (shown by arrow). When assembling, thread the groove of the rubber gasket to the flanging of the body. Air filter: the corrugation of the inlet pipe was taken to the side by removing the connector from the air flow sensor (shown by arrow). When assembling, thread the groove of the rubber gasket to the flanging of the body.
We quickly managed to change the oil, coolant and fuel filter, although I had to lie down. With such a high ground clearance, you can do without a viewing ditch.
Mounting belts are more difficult: no automatic tensioners. Without experience, it’s better not to meddle, since not pulling or pulling is equally bad. To tension the power steering belt, twist the lead screw, loosening the pump hardware (tightness due to the displacement of the unit). The generator drive has a separate tension roller. First, loosen the nut of its fastening with the “12” wrench, and then turn the spindle screw with the “10” wrench. An extension cord of 400-500 mm will be needed here, since the screw is located deep enough.
MEN TALK
Recently, the long-awaited ZMZ-514 diesel engine has been installed on some of the “hunters”. But not all dealers service these machines - at the time of preparing the material, the plant did not provide technical documentation! We have become pioneers.
Bottom view of the front of the diesel engine: toothed belts mounted over the V-ribbed belts, it is used to drive the high-pressure fuel pump. The alternator belt roller and spindle were under a plastic casing
Bottom view of the front of the diesel engine: toothed belts mounted over the V-ribbed belts, it is used to drive the high-pressure fuel pump. The alternator belt roller and spindle were under a plastic casing. Bottom view of the front of the diesel engine: toothed belts mounted over the V-ribbed belts, it is used to drive the high-pressure fuel pump. The alternator belt roller and spindle were under a plastic casing.
Perhaps the hardest thing is to replace the V-ribbed belts, because the timing belt of the high-pressure fuel pump drive has settled on top of them. Of course, without removing the "tooth" and without disassembling the drive, those belts can not be removed and installed. Just do not blame designers for such an arrangement: they were given the task of converting a regular gasoline engine with low blood, that is, without changing the timing chain drive, head and block. That is why the tension pulley of the alternator belt was under the plastic cover of the high-pressure fuel pump drive - even to adjust the tension, it must be removed. And access to the lead screw is extremely inconvenient.
It is more difficult to change the air filter than on a gasoline engine: the cover assembly with the filter element rests against the radiator. Together they can not be removed. It is necessary to dismantle the mounting clamps and remove the entire case.
Air filter: the corrugation of the inlet pipe was taken to the side by removing the connector from the air flow sensor (shown by arrow). When assembling, thread the groove of the rubber gasket to the flanging of the body
Air filter: the corrugation of the inlet pipe was taken to the side by removing the connector from the air flow sensor (shown by arrow). When assembling, thread the groove of the rubber gasket to the flanging of the body. Air filter: the corrugation of the inlet pipe was taken to the side by removing the connector from the air flow sensor (shown by arrow). When assembling, thread the groove of the rubber gasket to the flanging of the body.
To replace the coolant, remove the protection of the engine compartment - down with five “10” turnkey bolts. Do not be surprised if some of them are not screwed in, and some of the brackets are crookedly welded to the frame. This does not affect the speed of the machine itself, but here's how. We recommend to cover the whole thread with anticorrosive, and cut the mucous again under M8. The radiator drain plug is shown in the photo, and on the engine block it is in the region of the left support (under the turbine).
Access to the fuel filter is excellent. Having turned off two bolts, we take away the case with a replaceable cartridge from an arm. Hoses and connectors can not be disconnected, in this case we disassemble the structure by weight. Before you screw in a new cartridge, fill it with fuel - it’s easier to remove air plugs. When assembling, be careful with the wires of the "mass": their tips are flimsy, it is easy to damage the wires themselves.
After replacing the diesel fuel filter, we expel air from the system: turn on the ignition, unscrew the pumping plug (arrow) and wait until the fuel goes without bubbles. Spread a rag
After replacing the diesel fuel filter, we expel air from the system: turn on the ignition, unscrew the pumping plug (arrow) and wait until the fuel goes without bubbles. Spread a rag! After replacing the diesel fuel filter, we expel air from the system: turn on the ignition, unscrew the pumping plug (arrow) and wait until the fuel goes without bubbles. Spread a rag!
Glow plugs usually nursed more than 80 thousand km. But sooner or later they will have to be changed - then you will find out that without a tool with a high head on a cardan, you can’t get to the candles of the first and fourth cylinders.
PUMP BATTLES
On machines with Spicer bridges, pivot knuckles deserve special attention. Usually, by 30 thousand km, plastic liners wear out and the wheels stand up as a house.
Turn off the finger nuts with the “24” key and, having separated the gasket from the fist, remove the washers. To remove the sleeves you will need the original key 3160-2304. It is inconvenient, since it has only a hole for the handle, which makes the handle stand in only four positions (if this hole turned out to be offset relative to the hooks). A convenient position for stragging the bushings is very important, because the moment of scrap is up to 300 N.m! It is better to make a similar key from the impact head “at 23”, having sewn off the excess on the emery and leaving two diametrically opposite antennae with a width of 9.5 mm. It’s much more convenient to work this way - you can use a ratchet, providing yourself a comfortable lever position. But before knocking the fingers in the axial direction, only carefully so as not to jam the thread.
We disassemble the kingpin knuckle. The finger is still intact, but the liner was shattered, it’s a shame to demonstrate. The proprietary key is shown on top of the threaded bushing; it is inconvenient to twist it
We disassemble the kingpin knuckle. The finger is still intact, but the liner was shattered, it’s a shame to demonstrate. The proprietary key is shown on top of the threaded bushing; it is inconvenient to twist it. We disassemble the kingpin knuckle. The finger is still intact, but the liner was shattered, it’s a shame to demonstrate. The proprietary key is shown on top of the threaded bushing; it is inconvenient to twist it.
Having turned out the bushings, we take out and inspect the fingers. If they are ulcers from corrosion, we change. Now with a suitable hook we pry off the remnants of the old liners and remove them with pliers with narrow lips.
We assemble in the reverse order, without forgetting to put grease. When tightening the bushings, it is important to ensure the same distance from the mating planes of the washers to the pivoting ball with the obligatory absence of play. To top it off, tighten the finger nuts with a torque of 80–100 N.m.
Better to put more reliable kits. For example, Altai fingers with grease fittings and bronze inserts serve more than 200 thousand km (ZR, 2010, No. 1). There are even units on roller bearings, however, all these structures are not officially recognized by the plant.
WHAT IS THE STRENGTH IN, BROTHER?
With the replacement of oil in the units, nothing unusual: the drain and filler plugs did not disappear anywhere, despite the fact that the gearbox is now Korean, the company Daimos. Do not forget to move the caps of the breathers and make sure of their mobility, as well as to grind the crosspieces and movable couplings of the cardan shafts.
Changing the front pads, it is important to properly orient the pressure plate: it is asymmetrical, it is possible to put it the other way around. The long side of the base should face the axis of the car.
We often scold manufacturers for the complexity of replacing bulbs, but compared to UAZ, others are just angels.
The headlight headband screws (already removed here) are shown by arrows. Thanks to the different-sized slots in the movable section, the optics cannot be inserted correctly. But sometimes you can’t take it off due to corrosion of the fasteners
The headlight headband screws (already removed here) are shown by arrows. Thanks to the different-sized slots in the movable section, the optics cannot be inserted correctly. But sometimes you can’t take it off due to corrosion of the fasteners. The headlight headband screws (already removed here) are shown by arrows. Thanks to the different-sized slots in the movable section, the optics cannot be inserted correctly. But sometimes you can’t take it off due to corrosion of the fasteners.
Here, wherever you go, you find yourself in the Stone Age. So fathers and grandfathers fiddled with their cars. There is nothing to do without screwdrivers, but even they sometimes will not help. The screws for fastening the headlights and diffusers of the lamps turn sour after the very first winter, and then you can not do without a drill, power techniques and a strong catch. Moral: it was necessary to grease the thread with the anticorrosion before the bulbs burned out.
Igor Kozlov:
“I’ve been pleased with a well-written instruction manual - not like some foreign cars. But no matter how many smart books you read, you shouldn’t take it without experience and skill for servicing the Hunter: the machine is designed for rugged guys with endurance and a solid character.”
We are grateful to TECHINCOM Auto
