Ford focus
Plastic mesh on the radiator grill - 120–150 rubles. Aluminum mesh on the front bumper - 320-700 rubles. Self-tapping screws, dowels - 100-150 rubles. Plastic mesh on the radiator grill - 120–150 rubles. Aluminum mesh on the front bumper - 320-700 rubles. Self-tapping screws, dowels - 100-150 rubles. Plastic mesh on the radiator grill - 120–150 rubles. Aluminum mesh on the front bumper - 320-700 rubles. Self-tapping screws, dowels - 100-150 rubles.
How and with what to supplement the factory protection of the radiator is a favorite topic of discussions at car online forums. An elegant and low-cost solution was proposed by Mikhail Loktionov, a well-known forum member «Ford Focus Club» (ffclub.ru) under the nickname MishaL. It is addressed to the owners of the second-generation Ford Focus post-styling, but with well-known reservations, it can be suitable for many other cars.
one
To remove the radiator grill, it is necessary to dismantle the upper plastic panel above the hood lock by disconnecting six pistons in front. Disconnect the link from the lock by removing it from the hinge. To remove the radiator grill, it is necessary to dismantle the upper plastic panel above the hood lock by disconnecting six pistons in front. Disconnect the link from the lock by removing it from the hinge. To remove the radiator grill, it is necessary to dismantle the upper plastic panel above the hood lock by disconnecting six pistons from the front. Disconnect the link from the lock by removing it from the hinge.
2
There are two latches below the edge of the radiator grille, they should be lifted in front through the slot with a screwdriver or a knife and pull the grille towards you (in the photo - view from the motor side). There are two latches below the edge of the radiator grille, they should be lifted in front through the slot with a screwdriver or a knife and pull the grille towards you (in the photo - view from the motor side). There are two latches below the edge of the radiator grille, they should be lifted in front through the slot with a screwdriver or a knife and pull the grille towards you (in the photo - view from the motor side).
3
A plastic mesh (64 by 21 cm) of Russian production will go to the grille. The mesh is strong and tough, not warped. Before installation, it can be cut across into two parts or in a single piece cut two holes for the hood lock. A plastic mesh (64 by 21 cm) of Russian production will go to the grille. The mesh is strong and tough, not warped. Before installation, it can be cut across into two parts or in a single piece cut two holes for the hood lock. A plastic mesh (64 by 21 cm) of Russian production will go to the grille. The mesh is strong and tough, not warped. Before installation, it can be cut across into two parts or in a single piece cut two holes for the hood lock.
four
You will also have to stock up on 4.2x19 self-tapping screws and “5” dowels, 12 pieces will go on the radiator grill. You will also have to stock up on 4.2x19 self-tapping screws and “5” dowels, 12 pieces will go on the radiator grill. You will also have to stock up on 4.2x19 self-tapping screws and “5” dowels, 12 pieces will go on the radiator grill.
five
There are holes in the crosshairs of the horizontal and vertical edges of the grating. We cut the dowels according to their depth and insert them into the holes. There are holes in the crosshairs of the horizontal and vertical edges of the grating. We cut the dowels according to their depth and insert them into the holes. There are holes in the crosshairs of the horizontal and vertical edges of the grating. We cut the dowels according to their depth and insert them into the holes.
6
We apply a plastic mesh (solid or two parts) and clamp with screws. Here's how it turned out - the view from the face and from the back. We apply a plastic mesh (solid or two parts) and clamp with screws. Here's how it turned out - the view from the face and from the back. We apply a plastic mesh (solid or two parts) and clamp with screws. Here's how it turned out - the view from the face and from the back.
6+
7
To access the bumper from below, you first need to remove the plastic apron on the screws / caps. To protect the opening in the bumper, an aluminum mesh of Turkish production Carmos (110 by 20 cm) is suitable. There are fewer openings in the bumper grill, and the screws are “requested” there, used to fasten the wing of the VAZ “nine” (14–16 pcs.). To access the bumper from below, you first need to remove the plastic apron on the screws / caps. To protect the opening in the bumper, an aluminum mesh of Turkish production Carmos (110 by 20 cm) is suitable. There are fewer openings in the bumper grill, and the screws are “requested” there, used to fasten the wing of the VAZ “nine” (14–16 pcs.). To access the bumper from below, you first need to remove the plastic apron on the screws / caps. To protect the opening in the bumper, an aluminum mesh of Turkish production Carmos (110 by 20 cm) is suitable. There are fewer openings in the bumper grill, and the screws are “requested” there, used to fasten the wing of the VAZ “nine” (14–16 pcs.).
7+
eight
It is not necessary to remove the grille itself, especially if the rim is chrome-plated - it is easy to damage it. Set the inside of the bumper mesh, shortening the workpiece by about 5 cm and rounding the ends. We fasten the screws, pushing apart the cells with a flat screwdriver. It is not necessary to remove the grille itself, especially if the rim is chrome-plated - it is easy to damage it. Set the inside of the bumper mesh, shortening the workpiece by about 5 cm and rounding the ends. We fasten the screws, pushing apart the cells with a flat screwdriver. It is not necessary to remove the grille itself, especially if the rim is chrome-plated - it is easy to damage it. Set the inside of the bumper mesh, shortening the workpiece by about 5 cm and rounding the ends. We fasten the screws, pushing apart the cells with a flat screwdriver.
