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Indeed, the overwhelming majority of operations will be handled by many motorists trained on the products of the domestic automobile industry. Is it not for this reason that the manufacturer has become generous for us with an additional anti-crust of the bottom that can smear everything and everything? There are still memorable times when the “frets” were processed in the same way during pre-sale preparation. Of course, caring for a future buyer is commendable and the hands of this dirt are not afraid. But the shirt or jacket, accidentally covered with a black greasy mass, is still a pity.
BUSINESS CARD

AS OIL
Engines with a working volume of 1.4 or 1.6 liters are installed on the Solaris. Outwardly, they do not differ in anything, except for the sticker with the motor code, so the maintenance operations are the same.
When changing the oil in the engine, a wide filler neck was pleased - at least a leu from a bucket. The dipstick is also good: a trace of even fresh oil is perfectly visible on the brushed steel tip. To access the drain plug, the protection of the engine compartment can not be removed, since it has a technological hole. There is also an oil filter, but it is designed to use a cup remover (if the filter does not go by hand). A puller of another type is unlikely to crawl into such a small hole - then, perhaps, the protection will have to be removed. But this is not difficult: with the “17” key, weaken the two rear bolts and, having turned out completely the front ones, we shift the steel sheet along the car. The main thing is to remember that the part is quite massive and you just need to grope the center of gravity. Sometimes, a leaf slid from his hand and fell to the end, breaking his toes. Be careful!
The oil in the boxes is designed for the entire service life. If you have to change, then there will be no difficulties with the mechanics: the drain plug is located under the left-hand drive, and the filler plug (it is also the control one) is in the front of the unit. Both turnkey "at 17". In the machine called “Baby Highway”, unlike other modern boxes, there is a dipstick, and this is a plus: if you happen to change or add oil, handle it for sure.
For the replacement of the air filter we put a five - you can’t imagine any easier!
Access to the engine air filter is simple: we unfasten two spring latches on the body, lift the cover and, having fed it to the left wing, we release it from the ears

Access to the engine air filter is simple: we unfasten two spring latches on the body, lift the cover and, having fed it to the left wing, we release it from the ears. Access to the engine air filter is simple: we unfasten two spring latches on the body, lift the cover and, having fed it to the left wing, we release it from the ears.
Salon is not far behind: we also change without using a tool. It is only important to correctly place the filter element in the cartridge - in the direction of the arrows marked on the side of the accordion.
A replacement fuel filter cartridge is located in the submersible fuel pump. In cold weather, it is better not to climb into it, since it is likely to break off fragile plastic latches when disassembling. Better to wait for warm days. To access, we raise the front edge of the back sofa cushion, freeing it from the grip of the two latches, and unscrew one bolt in the center at the junction of the pillow with the back. Having taken out the pillow, we pry off the plastic floor hatch glued to the crude rubber and disconnect the wiring block by prying off the fixing antennae. Next, disconnect the fuel lines by pressing on the plastic clips (differ from the tips in color), and unscrew the nuts of the clamping flange. Now, carefully, trying not to damage the grid of the fuel receiver and not bend the sensor lead, remove the pump from the tank. Having patience and putting other troubles into the background, we disassemble the design with special trepidation. One wrong move - and the road to your store for a new pump (12, 100 rubles).
With the replacement of spark plugs, even a student will figure it out: first, remove the plastic overlay of the valve cover by unscrewing four “10” turnkey bolts, and then unscrew the fasteners of individual coils with the same tool. Having removed the connector (see photo), we take out the coil. Candles here under the head "at 16". When assembling, it would be good to return all the fasteners to its rightful place: the bolts for the coils are equipped with a grover and a flat washer, and for the lining - a shoulder in the base of the hexagon. But even if you mix it up, it's okay, because all the bolts are the same length. The main thing is not to overdo it when tightening the bolts: the nuts in the plastic valve cover are easy to tear with the root.
To disconnect the connector from the individual ignition coil, push the gray pin out of it, then press the black antenna (shown by arrow)

To disconnect the connector from the individual ignition coil, push the gray pin out of it, then press the black antenna (shown by arrow). To disconnect the connector from the individual ignition coil, push the gray pin out of it, then press the black antenna (shown by arrow).
TURNS UP, TURNS OUT
The first batches of Solaris were equipped with a 1.6-liter engine of the old model (G4 FC unit), with manual adjustment of the V-ribbed belt. For tension, weaken the lower hardware and, rotating the spindle, we displace the generator. It is highly advisable to pre-remember the deflection of the belt in order to tighten a new one, either in the same way or a little stronger. I am glad that few cars were produced with such a motor.
The new model G4 FC engine is equipped with an automatic tensioner, and here you can not go wrong with adjusting the belt if you wish.
YES WILL BE LIGHT
Access to the turn signal lamps of the front optics is excellent. The head light section with H4 lamps is more accessible in the right headlight. The fuse box interferes on the left, however, the bulb was able to be changed in about twenty seconds, without using a tool.
You don’t need a tool when replacing the lamps in the lights of a sedan: just bend the valve in the trunk lining - and here they are, the bulbs. On a hatchback, you can’t do without a Phillips screwdriver: we turn out three self-tapping screws for the lantern and a screw for the tailgate of the tailgate. Now we pull the lamp back strictly along the axis of the car, overcoming the grip of the two latches. Fortunately, they are not so powerful. But be careful: the corner of the diffuser pricks at a time.
In the section of the additional brake light are incandescent lamps (not LEDs), so change them more often. On the hatchback, the flashlight is with a washer nozzle, so, among other things, you need to disconnect the handset. It is her, and not to pull the nozzle out of the body, since the latches are too fragile and easily break in any incorrect movement.
It is better to disassemble the third stop lamp in warm conditions, since the latches of the case are quite fragile (one of them is shown by the arrow). Wiring can not be disconnected, enough length

It is better to disassemble the third stop lamp in warm conditions, since the latches of the case are quite fragile (one of them is shown by the arrow). Wiring can not be disconnected, enough length. It is better to disassemble the third stop lamp in warm conditions, since the latches of the case are quite fragile (one of them is shown by the arrow). Wiring can not be disconnected, enough length.
ORBITAL COMPLEX
There is nothing unusual in the design of the front brake: we turn out the guide bolts with the “14” key, holding the latter with the “17” key. It is advisable not to be too lazy and unscrew both bolts by removing the bracket completely - the brake hose will be more intact. The bolts are reusable, without locking sealant. It is unnecessary to remind that the pad pads should be cleaned of wear products. Be sure to check the mobility of the guides! If it is tight, remove the corrugated seals from the shoulder and grease your fingers. SHRUS-4 grease is often used for these purposes, but it is better to purchase a special one, for example 08887-01206 (a 100-gram tube costs about 200 rubles). In the case of replacing the disk, unscrew the two screws that secure it to the hub and remove the bracket support - two “17” turnkey bolts.
The rear brake pads are also used on the handbrake, in such designs the piston is not pressed, but screwed. We advise you to stock up in advance with the appropriate device (the price is about 2000 rubles). With guides, as well as in front, turnkey “on 14” and “on 17”. Tightening torque of wheel nuts - 110 N.m. Some owners will learn about this simple recommendation after dancing on the handle of a balloon wrench and breaking off a hairpin.
Igor Kozlov:
Igor Kozlov

"Solaris" left a very good impression, with the exception, perhaps, of the lights on the hatchback. Why they didn’t provide for easy access to the lamps, like on a sedan, it remains a mystery to me.”