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Category: Auto Tips

We Serve Volkswagen Golf VI

2024

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Video: We Serve Volkswagen Golf VI

Video: We Serve Volkswagen Golf VI
Video: Стоит ли покупать Фольксваген Гольф 6 (2008-2013)? 2024, March
We Serve Volkswagen Golf VI
We Serve Volkswagen Golf VI
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A great many engines are installed on golfs; you cannot cover everything in one article. We have already talked about the CFNA unit (ЗР , 2011, No. 1), so this time we are testing a car with the no less popular BSE engine - an eight-valve 1.6 liter (102 hp). It may not be the most sophisticated in terms of technology, but it is less demanding on the quality of Russian fuel, for which we respect. However, the chance to poison the candles always remains.

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DO NOT BE AFRAID

According to official technology, the candles are changed with the removal of the intake manifold. First you need to disconnect the car from power, then dismantle many components and parts: a throttle tube, an air blower in the converter, a rear collector mounting bracket (after suffering because of inconvenient access to its left mounting point), as well as all kinds of sensors and communications (very lucky, if you do without broken brackets). Finally, remove the manifold, being careful not to damage the gaskets. In general, half a motor to disassemble.

We will go the other way, because the candles of cylinders 1–2 are inclined to the pulleys, and cylinders 3–4 to the flywheel, therefore, with a certain dexterity, you can still crawl. First, remove the candle tips, picking them up from under the collector with the tip of a slotted screwdriver or, more conveniently, using pliers for valve stem seals. Take the tips to the side. For the candles of the first and fourth cylinders, a direct key is suitable, and for the second and third, located directly under the collector, we use an extension cord with a cardan. Carefully enter it into a narrow passage, trying not to touch neighboring parts, and put it on the candle, adjusting its position from under the collector. When unscrewing the candles, jewelry precision is needed so that the tool does not lean on the nozzles and their connectors, as well as on the collector. Otherwise, the nozzles will turn and soon begin to leak, and the collector, being thin-walled, can easily burst. Given such difficulties, we lower the score for this operation. And you decide for yourself - to save on the planned replacement of candles in the hope that they still stretch out, or to be ready for repairs if they fail on the road.

With the replacement of the timing drive, you are unlikely to mess around. Firstly, it is not so often required (every 90 thousand km), and secondly, it is necessary to hang out the power unit and remove the right support. In addition, you have to clear the place by removing the tanks on the right mudguard, the lower part of the fender liner, the V-ribbed belt and the protective covers. If this was enough patience, then the main thing is not to fuss. The fact is that there is no mark on the toothed pulley of the crankshaft, it is applied only to the belt pulley of the auxiliary units, therefore, unscrewing the four bolts of the latter (we do not touch the central one), it is important not to turn the shaft. It is unlikely that you will be mistaken with the adjustment of the belt, since the drive has a semi-automatic tensioner.

The automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is turned clockwise with the “16” key and, aligning the holes on the sectors, we insert a 4 mm pin into them (a regular nail is suitable)

Автоматический натяжитель поликлинового ремня поворачиваем по часовой стрелке ключом «на 16» и, совместив отверстия на секторах, вставляем в них 4-миллиметровую чеку (годится обычный гвоздь)
Автоматический натяжитель поликлинового ремня поворачиваем по часовой стрелке ключом «на 16» и, совместив отверстия на секторах, вставляем в них 4-миллиметровую чеку (годится обычный гвоздь)

The automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is turned clockwise with the “16” key and, aligning the holes on the sectors, we insert a 4 mm pin into them (a regular nail is suitable). The automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is turned clockwise with the “16” key and, aligning the holes on the sectors, we insert a 4 mm pin into them (a regular nail is suitable).

The manufacturer recommends changing the pump at the same time, but when first replacing the timing drive, some owners, planning to sell the car soon, ignore this recommendation. Keep in mind future owners!

"HIGH TECH

With the replacement of oil in the engine, there were no difficulties, apart from the abundance of fasteners for the standard protection of the engine compartment: six bolts and eight screws. And without removing the protection, neither the drain plug, nor the filter can be crawled. Disposable cork, with a fixed sealing ring.

The oil in the boxes, regardless of their type, is designed for the entire service life. But only the Universe is eternal, so sooner or later it will be necessary to change, especially if it has opened to flow through the seals. The mechanics are simple: there is a drain plug and a filler plug (it is also a control one). The level should be at the last cut.

With a DSG (box-robot with two clutches) is much more complicated: no control plug or probe. Therefore, if oil leaks, then the road is the same - to the service. If there is no leak, and you just want to play it safe and replace the fluid, then in no case do not drain it from the valve body, called mechatronic. Only from the crankcase of the mechanical part (see photo)! Otherwise, destroy the unit. Drain the oil into a measuring container. If everything is in order with the box, we get 1.7 liters - and pour as much fresh fresh. But how? Fill plugs are not provided, we will contrive. We remove the air filter housing, the battery and its plastic pad, and then the control lever, loosening the terminal mount to the axis (located in the rear, closer to the front panel). Then we turn out four bolts of the cover and, having removed it, we get excellent access to the cavity.

Powertrain from below: the oil filter is circled, the drain plug of the DSG robot is shown by a green arrow. Without a dealer scanner, do not drain oil from the valve body (red arrow)

Силовой агрегат снизу: масляный фильтр обведен кружочком, сливная пробка робота DSG показана зеленой стрелкой. Не имея дилерского сканера, не сливайте масло из гидроблока (красная стрелка)
Силовой агрегат снизу: масляный фильтр обведен кружочком, сливная пробка робота DSG показана зеленой стрелкой. Не имея дилерского сканера, не сливайте масло из гидроблока (красная стрелка)

Powertrain from below: the oil filter is circled, the drain plug of the DSG robot is shown by a green arrow. Without a dealer scanner, do not drain oil from the valve body (red arrow). Powertrain from below: the oil filter is circled, the drain plug of the DSG robot is shown by a green arrow. Without a dealer scanner, do not drain oil from the valve body (red arrow).

In the now rare AKP Golf, experts advise not to meddle at all, because without a professional scanner that not only measures the temperature, but also captures the so-called control point, you cannot check the correct oil level.

GERMANS LACK

What we respect for old German cars for is the ease of replacing light bulbs. It turned out, and in the new everything is thought out, but not to the smallest detail. The adsorber interferes with access to the dipped beam of the right headlight, and the air filter housing and fuse box interfere with the left lamps. In order not to bother in cramped conditions, it is better to remove them (it is enough to remove the cover from the fuse box). Despite the provided capture flag on the low beam cartridge, replacing the lamp will require dexterity: it strives to fall out when installed in a socket. To access the foglights, you need to remove the wheel and the lower part of the fender liner, twisting 11 screws, is another minus.

With lanterns, too, not everything was pleasant, since the outer sections need to be removed by turning out the plastic bolt-wing. To get to him, cuts were made in the trunk trim, but they are so short that they can’t crawl through the slot. The hand did not rise to grab the knife, so the trim was bent, releasing it from under the doorway seal.

The outer section of the flashlight must be removed to replace the lamps. The board to the case is mounted on five latches, they should be bent in different directions. Not very convenient: not enough fingers

Наружную секцию фонаря для замены ламп нужно снимать. Плата к корпусу крепится на пяти защелках, их следует отгибать в разные стороны. Не совсем удобно: пальцев не хватает
Наружную секцию фонаря для замены ламп нужно снимать. Плата к корпусу крепится на пяти защелках, их следует отгибать в разные стороны. Не совсем удобно: пальцев не хватает

The outer section of the flashlight must be removed to replace the lamps. The board to the case is mounted on five latches, they should be bent in different directions. Not very convenient: not enough fingers. The outer section of the flashlight must be removed to replace the lamps. The board to the case is mounted on five latches, they should be bent in different directions. Not very convenient: not enough fingers.

If the new lamp does not light, remove the negative terminal from the battery for three minutes to reset the error in the lamp health monitoring unit.

Having a “Torx-45” for guides, with the replacement of the front pads, handle without hassle. In the rear mechanisms there is a nuance: the outer block is glued to the bed in a bracket, and the inner one - to the end of the piston. To do this, an adhesive composition is applied to the metal base of the pads, but before setting them, degrease the surfaces. Although, according to experience, soon they will still peel off and begin to squeak. Tightening torque of front and rear guides 30 N.m, wheel bolts - 100 N.m.

WHAT IS GOOD FOR RUSSIAN

There is an external fuel filter! It is located on the side of the gas tank, in front of the rear right wheel. Before changing, depressurize the tank (unscrew and re-tighten the plug) and in the ramp (press on the spool under the blue cap), then when disconnecting the lines, do not spray fuel.

To access the cabin filter, unscrew the two plastic wing screws securing the trim under the instrument panel (above the front passenger's feet). Then everything is simple:

To access the cabin filter, remove the hatch in the heater by sliding it to the right and pulling down. When assembling, we introduce six hooks of the cover into the holes of the filter element, feed the cover up and shift it to the left

Для доступа к салонному фильтру снимаем лючок в отопителе, сдвинув его вправо и потянув вниз. При сборке вводим шесть зацепов крышки в отверстия фильтроэлемента, подаем крышку вверх и сдвигаем влево
Для доступа к салонному фильтру снимаем лючок в отопителе, сдвинув его вправо и потянув вниз. При сборке вводим шесть зацепов крышки в отверстия фильтроэлемента, подаем крышку вверх и сдвигаем влево

To access the cabin filter, remove the hatch in the heater by sliding it to the right and pulling down. When assembling, we introduce six hooks of the cover into the holes of the filter element, feed the cover up and shift it to the left. To access the cabin filter, remove the hatch in the heater by sliding it to the right and pulling down. When assembling, we introduce six hooks of the cover into the holes of the filter element, feed the cover up and shift it to the left.

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