Nissan Pathfinder Nissan Pathfinder
The experimental car is equipped with a YD25 diesel engine (2.5 l) and a 5-speed automatic gearbox - this is perhaps the most popular equipment of the Passfinder.
The engine compartment is arranged more successfully than on the rarer versions with a 3-liter V9X diesel or VQ40 gasoline: access to all tanks and parts requiring routine replacement is quite acceptable here. Apart from the brake reservoir, covered in the earlier versions with a plastic lining. There is no one to admire it under the hood, and the benefits are zero, therefore, after restyling, the plant abolished it. And rightly so: visual control of the fluid level is much more important than design sophistication.
The engine cover has been preserved, although it also interferes with servicing the machine. In particular, change the oil. The fact is that the hole for the filler neck is made in the form of a funnel collecting any garbage at the bottom. To prevent it from crumbling into the motor when unscrewing the cover, we advise you to remove the cover first by unscrewing the two bolts in the front and pulling the back off the rubber buffers.
Then access to the oil filter will be easier. If he doesn’t go by hand, we work as a puller. Even a chain is suitable, there is enough room for maneuver, but a cup or a three-toed "crab" is better. The last in the assembly with an extension of 300-400 mm are used by dealers, recognizing it as the most convenient.
Access to the fuel filter is excellent - it is under the hood in a very visible place. To replace, disconnect the pressure line pipes and return pipes, and then loosen the bracket clamp bolt. After installing a new filter, we remove the air plugs: we connect all the lines to the same place, except for the tube to the high pressure fuel pump, and, like an expander, we squeeze a specially designed bulb under the filter, waiting until the fuel flows without air bubbles. Just keep in mind that the fitting is looking directly at you - try not to douse yourself in diesel fuel.
Glow plugs last a long time, but sooner or later they will have to be changed. We remove the connector, clutching at a convenient tide (arrow). The candle itself whitens to the right and a little lower
Glow plugs last a long time, but sooner or later they will have to be changed. We remove the connector, clutching at a convenient tide (arrow). The candle itself whitens to the right and a little lower. Glow plugs last a long time, but sooner or later they will have to be changed. We remove the connector, clutching at a convenient tide (arrow). The candle itself whitens to the right and a little lower.
Diesel glow plugs usually last a long time, and if you have to change, there will be no difficulties: access to them with the plastic overlay of the engine removed is very good. Candles - under the high “10” socket head.
V-ribbed belts two. The upper one, wider, is equipped with an automatic tensioner, so you won’t be mistaken with the setting. Be sure to check out the video! Sometimes the backlash appears even with a meager run and prematurely kills the belt. The lower belt tension is adjusted by rotating the spindle, loosening the roller nut first. It takes skill.
The oil in the transmission units is designed for the entire service life, but it is sometimes necessary to change it. With gearboxes of bridges, manual gearboxes and razdatkoy everything is familiar: we drain the mining through the lower plugs, and fresh fill through the side, they are also control. In an unheated car, standing on a flat platform, the level should be at the cut of these control holes.
Pour oil into the machine through the dipstick tube, it controls the level with it. On the boxes of the latest versions, the dipstick was abolished, so you can’t check the oil from under the hood. And replacing it is more difficult. First, we drain the mining through a large plug in the oil pan, and then, screwing the plug into place, we turn out another, small one. Behind it is a measuring cup, through the upper section of which it is necessary to serve a fresh portion in a volume half a liter larger than the drained one. To do this, you need a threaded adapter fitting, as on a cork (and screwed in instead), or at least a sleeve with a lock nut. Having put a suitable hose on the adapter, we supply oil under pressure. Better with a syringe, but you can simply bring the other end of the hose higher under the hood and, putting on a funnel on it, fill it by gravity. And to pour more fun, warm up to 40-50 ºС. After pouring the portion as quickly as possible (in order to lose a minimum of oil) we change the adapter to the cork.
The drain plug of the 5-speed automatic machine of the new sample is shown by the red arrow, and the filler plug by the green one. Crosses of driveshafts without grease fittings
The drain plug of the 5-speed automatic machine of the new sample is shown by the red arrow, and the filler plug by the green one. Crosses of driveshafts without grease fittings. The drain plug of the 5-speed automatic machine of the new sample is shown by the red arrow, and the filler plug by the green one. Crosses of driveshafts without grease fittings.
It remains to start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature, move the lever to all positions with a slight delay in each of them and, leaving it in position P (“parking”), go down to the ground again and turn out the small plug. Surplus will merge. But doubts about the faultless action, when you know the dealer technology, will remain: how to make sure that the oil temperature was at the same time 40 ºС, as the official regulation requires? Masters check the temperature with a proprietary scanner, and without it, hope is only on instinct.
With the replacement of antifreeze, too, not everything is clear. On older versions, there was a convenient drain plug in the lower radiator tank, but after restyling it was gone. The fluid has to be drained by disconnecting the lower pipe. There was a risk of getting wet and poisoning the earth with poisonous ethylene glycol, in addition to access the nozzle it will be necessary to remove the power protection of the engine compartment and the plastic bumper “skirt” overlay, turning out the mass of fasteners. By the totality of articles, we lower the estimate.
Through the eyes of the hunter
Getting to the headlights to replace the bulbs is more difficult on the right - the battery interferes. It is better to remove it so as not to strip your hands. Now access is free, but do not rush to rejoice: if you easily replace the size and the turn signal, then carry it with the H4 low-beam lamp - it’s very tight to fit the terminal blocks to the output terminals. Even specialists sometimes break their fingers for up to half an hour, trying to remove the connector, although they help themselves with a slotted screwdriver (they must be wielded skillfully so as not to damage the protective rubber cover of the section).
And the back without a screwdriver can not do. But the bulbs that affect our safety with you must be replaced with one movement of the hand! However, with flashlights it is still simpler: you need to unscrew the two screws and remove the housing from the guides, shifting it back. The grip of these clamps is quite moderate.
In the third, additional “stop”, as in the turn signal repeaters on the mirrors, LEDs are used. Given their longevity, it may not be necessary to change.
The most ill-conceived lighting product was fog lights. To replace the lamps, you will need to unscrew the wheel and, having removed the fasteners, bend the liner. Of course, there were worse solutions, but what prevented the design from looking more beautiful - providing removable plugs or detachable flap pockets in the fenders?
With the H11 fog lamp only in the photo, everything is simple. Behind the scenes, the removed wheel and the liner, freed from three points of fasteners and bent to the side
With the H11 fog lamp only in the photo, everything is simple. Behind the scenes, the removed wheel and the liner, freed from three points of fasteners and bent to the side. With the H11 fog lamp only in the photo, everything is simple. Behind the scenes, the removed wheel and the liner, freed from three points of fasteners and bent to the side.
It is better to change the cabin filter when it is warm, since you have to remove the right side trim of the instrument panel. And plastic, as you know, is fragile in the cold, there is a risk of breaking off the latches. Having turned out the five glove compartment screws, we remove it from the panel, do not forget to disconnect the backlight connector, then remove the fuse box from the guides and get access to the heater hatch.
With the replacement of brake pads surely handle it. The main thing is not to mix up the plates of the bedding staples and install new pads in accordance with the photo.
The parking brake pads are turned by rotating the castellated nut through the removed plug in the drum-drum. To compensate for the extension of the cables, twist the nut on the sector of the parking brake lever. Access to it was a delight - a long time ago they had not seen anything easier: you just need to pull up the cup holders section on the floor tunnel. And without a tool, just a grip of your fingers. Bravo, The Pathfinder!
If we compare our hero with price competitors from the environment of off-road vehicles, which at one time became participants in this column, the Passfinder is quite worthy of praise. Even despite the flaws in the replacement of lamps, oil in the automatic transmission and, perhaps, poor access to the cabin filter.