Ssangyong actyon
SsangYong Actyon SsangYong Actyon
DIESEL HYGIENE
BUSINESS CARD
This model is equipped exclusively with a 2-liter turbodiesel, which means that you will have to pay constant attention to the cleanliness of the fuel system. Let's start by replacing the fuel filter. Having opened the hood, you immediately realize that you cannot replace the filter without removing the battery: it is firmly pressed by the battery to the front shield. With the “10” key, weaken the terminals: first, minus, then plus - and in the same sequence we remove them. With an extension ¼ inch with a “12” head, we unscrew the two pressure plate bolts. Keep in mind that a ½-inch tool is not suitable - it simply will not go into the narrow gap between the battery and the bracket of the engine control unit. Having unscrewed the fasteners, we get it together with the pressure plate with the help of a magnet (otherwise nothing) and take out the battery.
Next, disconnect the heating connector, fuel pipes and, unscrewing the three nuts, remove the filter assembly from the studs and put it on the battery platform - it is more convenient to disconnect the lower connector from the water presence sensor. Sometimes they forget about this connector (it is not visible behind the case), because of which they cut off the wiring.
Having removed the filter, we disassemble the housing: we unscrew the water presence sensor and two screws under the Torx-25, use a thin slotted screwdriver to separate the lid from the glass and change the filter element. In order to avoid guessing with the orientation of the fuel pipes during assembly, do not forget to mark the position of the clamp relative to the glass. Perhaps it makes sense to label not with a marker, as we did, but with a core once and for all.
To access the fuel filter, remove the battery. The fastening of the latter is unsuccessful: it is difficult to get to the bolts of the pressure plate (holes are shown by arrows), the engine control unit interferes
To access the fuel filter, remove the battery. The fastening of the latter is unsuccessful: it is difficult to get to the bolts of the pressure plate (holes are shown by arrows), the engine control unit interferes. To access the fuel filter, remove the battery. The fastening of the latter is unsuccessful: it is difficult to get to the bolts of the pressure plate (the holes are shown by arrows), the engine control unit interferes.
The assembly has its own nuances: because of the tightness, there is no way to make the back bolt of the battery clamp plate. It is better to remove the engine control unit - unscrew the two fastening nuts and disconnect the front connector. To prevent the nuts from falling off the tool, it is necessary to take measures in advance: stick the magnet to the tool or apply a little non-drying plumbing sealant to it. Moving the unit away from the battery and removing the air filter cover, we free up space for maneuver and, finally, put the naughty bolt in place. We return to the place of the computer, collect the air filter and connect the battery terminals.
To top it off, we pump the fuel system: by turning the cap of the pump built into the cover, we cock it into the working position (the cap is lifted) and pushing it, we expel the air. We swing until the diesel fuel pours out from under the cap (put a rag below). Having pressed the cap one last time, with rotation we fix it in the closed position.
In general, the operation is very laborious. If it was only a matter of replacing the filter, it would be possible to put up with it, but at the same time you would have to drain the dirt from the sump, and you couldn’t get to it without having done the above preparatory work. The only consolation is that the full volume of the sump is 200 ml, and the warning lamp lights up at 35 ml, so some reserve still remains and it is not necessary to start maintenance in the middle of the road.
The fuel filter is disassembled. From left to right: water presence sensor, replaceable filter element, glass, cover assembly with fuel heating element and manual pump
The fuel filter is disassembled. From left to right: water presence sensor, replaceable filter element, glass, cover assembly with fuel heating element and manual pump. The fuel filter is disassembled. From left to right: water presence sensor, replaceable filter element, glass, cover assembly with fuel heating element and manual pump.
Against this background, replacing the air filter seems to be a trifle, but here is its own peculiarity: before installing the cover, adjust the front latch so that it does not get pinched.
With the replacement of oil in the engine and units, the change of coolant was quickly managed and without any problems. It’s bad that there is no drain cock on the engine block, which is why it is necessary to drain the antifreeze hot (so it will merge more with the thermostat valve open), but, on the other hand, it has to be changed infrequently.
ALWAYS TIGHTEN
The V-ribbed belt is equipped with an automatic tensioner. But the effort on the key is great, therefore, without the extension pipe, it is unlikely that it will be possible to retract the machine.
We take away the automatic tensioner for the tide on the moving sector with the “19” key, turning clockwise. This equipment - with electric power steering, V-ribbed belt for it - 6 RK 1980
We take away the automatic tensioner for the tide on the moving sector with the “19” key, turning clockwise. This equipment is equipped with electric power steering, the V-ribbed belt for it is 6 RC 1980. We take the automatic tensioner away from the tide on the moving sector with the “19” key, turning it clockwise. This equipment - with electric power steering, V-ribbed belt for it - 6 RK 1980.
With the front brakes, nothing unusual, apart from the fact that the bolts of the guide fingers were without thread sealant - this seems to be a feature of the national assembly. Of course, they most likely will not turn away spontaneously, but why should we evaluate this probability? Therefore, we remove one point. We set the pads so that the removable anti-creak plate is on the inner block (this plate is non-removable on the outer one), and the block itself is facing upwards with a tweeter bracket.
In the rear mechanisms, the removable plate is also on the inner block, while the tweeter bracket should be on it, but from below. So that when disassembling the boot does not twist, as in the front, completely unscrew the lower bolt of the guide, and slightly release the upper one. Here, by the way, there was no sealant on the bolts either!
With the adjustment of the handbrake it took longer than usual. Its design is ordinary, but the mounting holes of the wheel are strongly offset to the axis, which is why a slotted screwdriver simply licks the edges of the adjusting crown nut. To twist this nut in one direction is normal (reducing pads), but in the other way. You can, of course, screw the tip of the screwdriver into an arc with a radius of 5–7 cm. Otherwise, turn the nut with the disc drum removed, determining the eye clearance. As a result, when the mounted wheel is rotated, the pads should lightly touch the disc-drum, which is easily determined by ear.
It is inconvenient to twist the parking brake adjusting clutch through the wheel mounting hole, since it is shifted up. It is strange that they did not provide a separate hole in the brake shield
It is inconvenient to twist the parking brake adjusting clutch through the wheel mounting hole, since it is shifted up. It is strange that they did not provide a separate hole in the brake shield. It is inconvenient to twist the parking brake adjusting clutch through the wheel mounting hole, since it is shifted up. It is strange that they did not provide a separate hole in the brake shield.
