000_moto_0811_070
The service life of the chain on the same motorcycle may vary several times depending on the operating and maintenance conditions. Sharp accelerations, rear wheel driving and dirt reduce it quite noticeably. The service life of the chain on the same motorcycle may vary several times depending on the operating and maintenance conditions. Sharp accelerations, rear wheel driving and dirt reduce it quite noticeably.
After work, I often drop by the workshop of an old friend. The pleasant atmosphere and the opportunity to tinker with the hardware yourself is very tonic. Once at the entrance, a new snow-white R6 stops and a young guy asks if the service is still working. As usual, he needed to check the chain tension and lubricate it. After 10 minutes, satisfied service workers shook hands with the no less satisfied owner of Yamaha. “What a wonderful customer,” I thought then, not understanding why he didn’t do such a simple procedure himself.
Manufacturers of modern goods purposefully turn us into a little fellow. We don’t wash cars, don’t wash clothes, don’t hem our clothes. Many already do not cook at home. And it is unlikely that they will cook something edible if all the restaurants in the district are closed. Just because you never did it. Moreover, some believe that losing time on such nonsense is below their dignity. Maybe so, but I'm sure that a person should have a choice. I can not do something because I don’t want, but not because I don’t know how. But worth it! To be able to ride a horse, to be able to cook deliciously, to be able to monitor your own home, to be able to drive a car and a motorcycle well and be able to serve them.
The chain drive is one of the busiest components in a motorcycle. In powerful motorcycles, the forces arising in it reach several tons. And when accelerating and braking, they change direction. Often this happens very abruptly, and at this moment the circuit is under severe stress. If the chain is tensioned slightly (sagging strongly), then at the time of changing the load, this excess supply of the chain will be selected first, and then, when its free movement ends, a sharp blow will occur, harmful to all transmission elements. By the way, it’s also unpleasant for the driver to control such a motorcycle twitching at any opening and covering the “gas”, especially in a sluggishly creeping traffic jam. The second minus of the sagging chain is that, with a slight tension, its unloaded shoulder tends to move in a straight line by inertia, which is why it imperfectly lays on the teeth of the sprocket, thereby wearing them and themselves.
But is it possible to pull the chain so that it does not sag at all? No, because when the rear suspension is working, the distance between the drive and driven sprockets changes. And the stretched chain will be subjected to enormous loads (to stretch in the strongest way), if you do not leave it a slight sag, which will be selected during the suspension operation. (Yes, and the shafts with bearings when the chain is tightened, I note, it will be difficult.) The reason is that the axis of the pendulum and the axis of the drive sprocket on most motorcycles are spaced from each other, so the maximum tension falls about the middle of the suspension travel - when the axles are secondary gearbox shaft, pendulum and rear wheel are in the same plane.
There are many ways to adjust chain sag. Shorten or lengthen the chain itself, increase or decrease the diameter of the sprockets, shift the pendulum attachment point … During the tuning of racing motorcycles, all these methods are used. But the easiest way is to change the chain tension by moving the attachment point of the rear axle along with the driven sprocket. It is such a solution, familiar from cycling, that is used on all motorcycles.
There are two principal ways to move the axis attachment point. The first is linear. The motorcycle pendulum has longitudinal slots along which the axis moves. Additionally, tensioners are installed. They come in various designs, but have a general principle: if you turn a screw or a nut, the axis moves along the slot, respectively, loosening or pulling the chain. You just need to figure out the direction. It is also important to understand that while the nut is tightened on the wheel axis, the tensioners should not be twisted - they can only be spoiled by loosening the threads (however, after finishing the adjustment, tighten them harmlessly so that they do not unwind on the road). Therefore, the axle nut must be loosened first. There are always marks on the pendulum and tensioners to help keep the wheels aligned. But in any case, I recommend pulling the chain more or less synchronously, alternately gradually twisting the right or left tensioner.
If you ride a motorcycle aggressively, like to raise it to the rear wheel, brake sharply, then the chain may stretch unevenly. Therefore, before checking the tension, hang up the rear wheel and spin in neutral. If the chain slack does not change as the wheel rotates, fine. If the chain is then stretched, it is weakened, which means that it is stretched unevenly and chermet is dear to her. Well, if there is a need to "get there" another hundred or two kilometers, adjust the sag according to the "most strained" position.
The second version of the chain tension system is eccentric. A circular hole of a sufficiently large diameter is cut in the pendulum, inside of which a sleeve rotates with an eccentrically drilled hole for the wheel axis. Turning the eccentric displaces the axis of the wheel, allowing you to change the chain tension. More often this option is found in cantilever (one-way) pendulums, but it also happens in ordinary ones. These systems require a bit more skill. A large diameter hexagon is usually required for adjustment. On older motorcycles, eccentrics happen to cling to a pendulum. It is important not to spoil them with excessive force, but patiently spill with kerosene and try to move, using not too coarse percussion instruments.
One of the most frequently asked questions is in what position should the motorcycle be when measuring chain slack. To stand on the ground under its own weight, with the rear wheel hanging (on the center stand) or under load (with a seated driver and passenger)? And what should be this sag? The recommendation of the vast majority of manufacturers is to evaluate the sag when an empty motorcycle stands on two wheels (on a side stand) and the rear shock is loaded only with its weight. The slack for road bikes is usually in the range of 30–45 mm, and for off-road with increased suspension travel it can reach 55 mm.
After the adjustment is completed, it is necessary to check whether everything turned out as it should. If the wheel is level, the marks on the tensioners on the right and left show the same thing, and the chain has the desired slack, then everything is done correctly. It remains only to lubricate the chain. It’s like anyone else likes it. If there is no central stand, it is easiest to hang out the rear wheel by tilting the motorcycle towards the side stand, start the engine and engage the gear. When the wheel begins to rotate, direct a stream of lubricant from the cylinder to the inside of the lower branch of the chain. The main thing is to lubricate the inner rollers and seals. The grease on the connecting plates only collects dirt and, in general, is not needed for the transmission to operate. The main thing is not to direct the stream from the cylinder past the chain - to the rim or tire. Frozen grease is very poorly removed from the rims, but well, about why you do not need to lubricate the tire, probably you do not need to talk.
There were automatic lubrication systems that allowed lubricating the chain on the go, but on modern motorcycles they did not take root, giving way to relatively expensive, but also durable lubricants.
Choosing a lubricant is, of course, in accordance with the type of motorcycle and - most importantly - with the conditions of its operation. So, expensive lubricant for racing motorcycles will not work well on off-road. By the way, the hardest chains are in mud and sand baths. Therefore, a good lubricant should not only easily penetrate all cracks, but, drying up, form a durable and not too dust-collecting film. In the case of force majeure, of course, any oil is better than dry friction, but remember that depending on the operating conditions and maintenance of the chain, its service life on motorcycles comparable in power can vary significantly - from 5 thousand km to 30–40 thousand.
Another pressing issue: to clean or not to clean the chain before lubrication and if to clean, how. Of course, only those who have a chain lock with a latch can afford to remove the chain and rinse it in the bath with a brush. It is unlikely that a pendulum should be removed for this, and there are aerosol cleaners on sale that make it possible to simplify this procedure to the limit: it is enough to rinse the chain out of the can with plenty and dry it. But for motorcycles used on the roads, this is often not enough. Only a bath with brushes helps to clean the chain well, through which a chain passes, watered through nozzles with diesel fuel or special washing liquid. The liquid is usually run in a circle through a fine filter. However, few people have such a device even in the workshop, not to mention travel. Therefore, many are generally limited only to chain lubrication - and with regular care, the transmission lives for a long time. The main criterion for good care is that each link in the chain should move freely, without jamming (this can be easily verified by slightly loosening the chain). And all operations with the chain are best done immediately after returning: the lubricant impregnates the warm chain more easily, and somehow protects it from rust.
Well that's all. Honestly, reading this article is probably longer than regulating and lubricating the motorcycle chain, so think for yourself whether it makes sense to go to the service with such a thing or take care of yourself for the envy of those who can do nothing themselves.
001_moto_0811_070
002_moto_0811_070
The chain tension is determined by pressing the branch with a finger, according to the difference in the readings on the scale of the ruler (tape measure). In this case (in the center of the chain) 58 - 17 = 41 mm. The chain tension is determined by pressing the branch with a finger, according to the difference in the readings on the scale of the ruler (tape measure). In this case (in the center of the chain) 58 - 17 = 41 mm.
003_moto_0811_070
Recommended tension parameters are usually indicated on the sticker on the pendulum. Recommended tension parameters are usually indicated on the sticker on the pendulum.
004_moto_0811_070
The screw tensioner requires at least two keys - one loosens the axle nut (you may have to keep the axle from turning with the other key), and the second we adjust its position. The screw tensioner requires at least two keys - one loosens the axle nut (you may have to keep the axle from turning with the other key), and the second we adjust its position.
005_moto_0811_070
After tightening the axle, always check that the tensioner screws are tightened. Otherwise, they may spin up on the go. After tightening the axle, always check that the tensioner screws are tightened. Otherwise, they may spin up on the go.
006_moto_0811_070
The snail tensioner is simpler and more convenient: only one key is needed, positioning accuracy is ensured by fixed notches on the “snail” and knocked out dots opposite each digit. In addition, the necessary chain tension is provided automatically if you turn the "snail" only by hand, without a key. One division approximately corresponds to one chain link. That is, in the case shown in the photo, you can easily take a chain 2 or 4 links longer. The snail tensioner is simpler and more convenient: only one key is needed, positioning accuracy is ensured by fixed notches on the “snail” and knocked out dots opposite each digit. In addition, the necessary chain tension is provided automatically if you turn the "snail" only by hand, without a key. One division approximately corresponds to one chain link. That is, in the case shown in the photo, you can easily take a chain 2 or 4 links longer.
007_moto_0811_070
When choosing a chain, pay attention to the size of the links (a), their number (b) and the type of seal (c). More details in Moto No. 3–2010. When choosing a chain, pay attention to the size of the links (a), their number (b) and the type of seal (c). More details in Moto No. 3–2010.
008_moto_0811_070
009_moto_0811_070
How to check wheel alignment? First, look at the motorcycle in front and, turning the steering wheel, make sure that the front wheel is exactly in the center of the rear (if you look along the sides of the front wheel, you can see the thickness of the rear tread is equal to the thickness). How to check wheel alignment? First, look at the motorcycle in front and, turning the steering wheel, make sure that the front wheel is exactly in the center of the rear (if you look along the sides of the front wheel, you can see the thickness of the rear tread is equal to the thickness).
010_moto_0811_070
011_moto_0811_070
When the front wheel is exposed, look again, but at a less acute angle, so that you can see both sides of the rear. Left and right, this angle (it is clearly visible on the front wheel) should be approximately the same. The photo shows that the rear wheel is looking to the left (in the direction of the motorcycle). When the front wheel is exposed, look again, but at a less acute angle, so that you can see both sides of the rear. Left and right, this angle (it is clearly visible on the front wheel) should be approximately the same. The photo shows that the rear wheel is looking to the left (in the direction of the motorcycle).
012_moto_0811_070
The packaging shows the assembly order with the lock, control values of sag and recommendations for care. The packaging shows the assembly order with the lock, control values of sag and recommendations for care.
013_moto_0811_070
When installing a new chain, it is important that the lower branch does not rub against the chain trap. When tensioning, the chain always moves away from the trap, so if there is a risk that the chain will touch it, choose a longer chain when buying. In general, in case of any doubt, take the chain longer: cutting the links from it is much easier than building them up. When installing a new chain, it is important that the lower branch does not rub against the chain trap. When tensioning, the chain always moves away from the trap, so if there is a risk that the chain will touch it, choose a longer chain when buying. In general, in case of any doubt, take the chain longer: cutting the links from it is much easier than building them up.
014_moto_0811_070
To make sure that the trap does not touch the chain, disassemble it and assemble only the insert with the frame - so you will immediately see all the gaps. To make sure that the trap does not touch the chain, disassemble it and assemble only the insert with the frame - so you will immediately see all the gaps.
015_moto_0811_070
016_moto_0811_070
To clean and lubricate the chain, it is convenient to put the motorcycle on the central stand (or hang it on the side with the help of an additional support), start the engine and engage first gear. The compositions are sprayed onto the inner surface of the lower branch of the chain, making sure that they do not fall on the rim and tire. To clean and lubricate the chain, it is convenient to put the motorcycle on the central stand (or hang it on the side with the help of an additional support), start the engine and engage first gear. The compositions are sprayed onto the inner surface of the lower branch of the chain, making sure that they do not fall on the rim and tire.
