Chery Fora (A21)
Chery Fora (A21) Chery Fora (A21)
ALIEN EARTH
The most popular motor is installed on the experimental machine - a two-liter SQR484F. To change the candles, you need to remove the plastic engine cover - it is also part of the duct. Access to the candle tips is limited by the crankcase ventilation hose: having squeezed the clamp, we pull it off the valve cover pipe and move it to the side. Now you can remove the tips and turn out the candles (they are turnkey “by 16”), but first we close the hole in the throttle assembly so that we do not accidentally litter there.
The air filter changes simply. We twist the pair of screws “under the cross”, lift the back of the lid and, sliding it off the hooks, remove it. When installing a new filter element, make sure that the sealing gum does not move out - it is better to moisten it with soapy water. If it is skewed or freezes, untreated air will enter the motor. At the same time, it is desirable to carry out wet cleaning in the cavity of the body, removing the dirt accumulated at the bottom.
When installing the air filter cover, it is important that all three hooks in the front fit into the corresponding slots on the housing. Do not forget to lay the fuel hose in the tool holders indicated by arrows
When installing the air filter cover, it is important that all three hooks in the front fit into the corresponding slots on the housing. Do not forget to lay the fuel hose in the tool holders indicated by arrows! When installing the air filter cover, it is important that all three hooks in the front fit into the corresponding slots on the housing. Do not forget to lay the fuel hose in the tool holders indicated by arrows!
The V-ribbed belt is equipped with an automatic tensioner, but its design is, to put it mildly, stupid. It’s not easy to take the machine: there’s nothing to catch on. Is it for the bolt of the roller, but it can turn away at the same time, because contrary to the logic of the circuit it has not left but right thread. If it is a pity to cut the old belt, which can always come in handy, remove the break-in roller, and then the belt with the tensioner.
Having reduced the sectors of the machine in a vice, insert a 5 mm pin into the holes provided and install the tensioner and the run-in roller in place. Having put a belt, it is possible to take out a check. Note that the force of the tension spring is quite large and bites the pin in the holes. It is more convenient to act together: one pulls the lower branch of the belt by mounting, resting on the oil pan, and the other, in the meantime, takes out the check with pliers. If you need to change the timing belt (according to the regulations - every 40 thousand km), then we start with it.
This drive with a semi-automatic tensioner, and this is its plus. The downside is that you need to dismantle the support by hanging the power unit - otherwise the cover of the casing cannot be removed. Access to one of the bolts of the lower cover is blocked by the run-in roller of the V-ribbed belt - we also remove it.
The automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is cocked and ready for installation on the engine. A 5 mm roller from a needle bearing was used as a pin, but a regular nail would do
The automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is cocked and ready for installation on the engine. A 5 mm roller from a needle bearing was used as a pin, but a regular nail would do. The automatic V-ribbed belt tensioner is cocked and ready for installation on the engine. A 5 mm roller from a needle bearing was used as a pin, but a regular nail would do.
For convenience, we also dismantle the expansion tank - down with two bolts. Having tinkered with Chinese pistons (their threaded core for a Phillips screwdriver helplessly skidding in place) and unscrewing a few bolts, remove the right mudguard of the engine compartment. You don’t need to turn the central crankshaft bolt, which you usually can’t turn, the pulley is on six peripheral bolts here, and this is another plus.
The marks on the camshaft pulleys should be located opposite each other, while there is no counter mark on the crankshaft. We mark its position relative to the crankcase with a marker. After removing the old belt, be sure to check the condition of the pump: there should be no hint of leakage or biting of bearings! Without breaking the heels, we put in new ones, even if it seems that the old ones can still serve. Believe me, such a saving is inappropriate. When assembling, do not confuse the fasteners: the central bolt of the upper casing cover is longer than the rest!
To change the engine oil, you need to go below ground level. Even if you have an installation for pumping mining through the hole of the oil dipstick, you still cannot get to the oil filter from above. Drain plug on the engine - turnkey "17". The drain at the MCP is “at 24”, and the filling (at the same time control) is “at 17”.
When changing antifreeze, remember that it is toxic, so try not to breathe in pairs. It is better to drain hot liquid (with thermostat valve open, it will leak out more), but do not scald at the same time. The drain plug is located at the bottom of the right radiator tank.
We unscrew the drain plug on the radiator using the “12” key until the liquid flows through the nozzle (arrow). If you turn it completely, the antifreeze will go in two jets - it will be more difficult to catch it
We unscrew the drain plug on the radiator using the “12” key until the liquid flows through the nozzle (arrow). If you turn it completely, the antifreeze will go in two jets - it will be more difficult to catch it. We unscrew the drain plug on the radiator using the “12” key until the liquid flows through the nozzle (arrow). If you turn it completely, the antifreeze will go in two jets - it will be more difficult to catch it.
AN EYE FOR AN EYE
To replace the left fog lamp, you need to lie on your back and, with your hand in the gap between the plastic protection and the bumper skirt, turn the cartridge on the headlight. It is better to work with glasses, because in the work area, as a rule, a lot of dirt accumulates. It is more difficult with the right bulb: the path is blocked by the washer reservoir. To go from the rear, remove the mudguard, taking out 13 caps, - terribly inconvenient!
But it’s much more difficult to change the lamps in the headlights. Access to the right is limited by the neck of the washer reservoir, as well as the power steering reservoir and coolant reservoir. For convenience, it’s better to remove them: simply pull out the filler neck by pulling it up, and take the tanks, having turned away by a pair of bolts, to the side. Removing the plugs on the case is half the battle; many will be puzzled by the unusual lamp mount. In order to remove the dipped-beam end (it is more convenient to work with the mirror), you need to turn the block with the fixing steel plate mounted on it, and then, without touching the last one, remove the lamp itself from the block.
With high beams, it’s even worse: here it seems to be a standard fastening with a U-shaped bracket, but it is not easy to pull its ends out of the hooks - the ends of the bracket are taken aback with the headlamp housing. In addition, the opening of this section is smaller than that of the dipped beam, which is strange, because they also placed the envelope here. Moreover, each lamp is shifted relative to the center, and the size was so far that, except for pliers, "platypus", it can not be taken. When assembling, do not confuse plugs that are almost identical in diameter.
Please note: The U-shaped bracket for fastening the high-beam lamp abuts against the headlamp housing. To securely fix it, it is useful to bend the tip of the bracket. We take out the gauge by turning the cartridge
Please note: The U-shaped bracket for fastening the high-beam lamp abuts against the headlamp housing. To securely fix it, it is useful to bend the tip of the bracket. We take out the gauge by turning the cartridge. Please note: The U-shaped bracket for fastening the high-beam lamp abuts against the headlamp housing. To securely fix it, it is useful to bend the tip of the bracket. We take out the gauge by turning the cartridge.
With the left headlight, the problems are the same, with the only difference being that you need to remove the battery for access. And before that - a power fuse box, settled on top of the battery. Moreover, the left headlight for some reason differs from the right one: instead of rubber plugs, plastic ones removed with a turn (it looks like on Lada). After the ordeal with the headlights, changing the lamps in the taillights is a pleasure - not even a tool is needed.
FINGER ABOUT FINGER
To replace the front pads with the “13” key, unscrew the bolt of the lower finger of the guide and turn the bracket relative to the upper finger. The original inner pads are equipped with an electrical wear limit sensor. If instead of putting a non-original with a tweeter bracket, you need to cut the wiring from the old pads to close the connectors from dirt. The tweeter bracket should be on the bottom of the inner block.
Original pads are equipped with an electric indicator of the maximum wear. Block with wiring - internal, do not confuse during assembly. Remember to grease the beds with high temperature grease
Original pads are equipped with an electric indicator of the maximum wear. Block with wiring - internal, do not confuse during assembly. Remember to grease the beds with high temperature grease. Original pads are equipped with an electric indicator of the maximum wear. Block with wiring - internal, do not confuse during assembly. Remember to grease the beds with high temperature grease.
