"Horseshoe" of the generator from the VAZ-2110. The soldered auxiliary diode is shown by an arrow. Charging voltage increased from 13.5 to 14.4 V
"Horseshoe" of the generator from the VAZ-2110. The soldered auxiliary diode is shown by an arrow. Charging voltage increased from 13.5 to 14.4 V. The “Horseshoe” of the generator from the VAZ-2110. The soldered auxiliary diode is shown by an arrow. Charging voltage increased from 13.5 to 14.4 V.
Why does the battery sit down: did the patient sweat before death?
Why does another battery give up after only a year or two? By car, it is charged from the generator - at a constant voltage in the on-board network. After starting the engine, intensive charging lasts only a few minutes (this is called accelerated). The current at the beginning of the charge can reach tens of amperes, but then throughout the trip it is close to zero. With this “lifestyle”, the battery is constantly undercharged, large insoluble crystals of lead sulfate are formed on the plates - they increase the internal resistance of the battery, and its capacity becomes smaller with each cycle.
Recall that the battery is considered to be completely discharged, in which the voltage at the terminals dropped to 10.2 V, since with a smaller one it will begin to collapse. But to start a serviceable engine in the summer, such a battery can easily! It’s another matter after a night in the cold, nothing will come out here.
Often, batteries - the leaders of advertising tests work for the C grade and not for long. This is partly due to the method of charging them before the test: the use of direct current allows you to achieve one hundred percent compliance with the declared capacity. In this case, the voltage at the end of the charge can exceed 16 V. In a serviceable car you will not find this. For example, on our "top ten" there were 13.2 and 14.7 V. The first may well kill any winner of the test! For the latest batteries, as a rule, a charging voltage of at least 15.1 V is necessary (as, for example, on Kalina). But some (those that are simpler and heavier) sometimes serve the owners for many years, seven to eight years is not so rare! Domestic, by the way, are made so that they are perfectly charged at a voltage of 14.5 V.
On a starvation diet
Until recently, charging was controlled by an ammeter, but what's the point? The arrow deviated only after starting the engine, and then firmly laid down to zero! Later, this uninformative device was replaced with a voltmeter with colored sectors of the scale: the arrow in the green zone is normal, in the yellow one the charge is weak, and in the red, no! Later, the voltmeter was abolished, replacing a light bulb with a battery symbol. When you turn on the ignition, it lights up, after starting the engine goes out … and that’s it. Sense from her as a control device - a little. There may not be a charge (for example, the alternator belt has loosened or the contact on the wire from the generator to the battery has disappeared), and the light will not light up and will not warn! A full-time on-board computer will also catch up not earlier than the voltage drops below normal.
On-board computer Comfort X15. The capacity at the time of verification is 41 … Ah! Let's leave the fraction to the conscience of manufacturers - capacity is still measured in amperes multiplied by hours
On-board computer Comfort X15. The capacity at the time of verification is 41 … Ah! Let's leave the fraction to the conscience of manufacturers - capacity is still measured in amperes multiplied by hours. On-board computer Comfort X15. The capacity at the time of verification is 41 … Ah! Let's leave the fraction to the conscience of manufacturers - capacity is still measured in amperes multiplied by hours.
But if you know how to "listen" to the car, she often prompts herself. For example, when the engine is running, the headlights are bright, and when turned off, the lights are dim. Or when starting a warm engine, the starter barely twists. There is nothing to measure - the battery is almost empty. Then the first thing to check is the belt tension. We load it between the pulleys with a force of ten kilograms: if it bends by 5 … 10 mm, the tension is normal. It is impossible to pull the belt - it will be bad for both the belt and the bearings.
When the load increases (for example, if the engine speed is sharply increased, especially immediately after starting, or the headlights are turned on), a sagging belt whistles, slipping on the pulleys. If whistles and pulled, then pulleys are most likely worn out. Such - only change. It happens that the belt is oily - it is also better to replace it.
Is everything ok with the drive? Quite often, the voltage drops in the contact of the ground wire. To check, disconnect it from the engine, body and battery, clean the contacts and tighten again. We start the engine and let it run at an average speed of about ten minutes, then we measure the voltage at the battery terminals. This value is very important, for each car model its own. In the manuals for repair and maintenance, it is usually indicated.
Next experience: turning on the headlights and heater, let the engine run for ten minutes again - and check the voltage. If it fell in comparison with the initial one by no more than 0.15 … 0.25 V, everything is normal with charging.
But what to do if the battery still weakly charges? It happens that it is too "advanced", with calcium in the plates instead of antimony - for its full charge, the voltage of the on-board network of your "dvenashka" is apparently insufficient. But it can be increased to about 14.4 V. The diode, taken at least from the old generator, is soldered in series with the diodes through which the supply current to the voltage regulator flows. After the alteration, the battery will charge better, and the headlights will become brighter.
The most convenient way to control the battery charge on the device. One of the simplest is a milliammeter with an arrow in the middle, deviating to plus or minus. A generator-battery connected in parallel with the wire, it will show not only charging, but also unnecessary discharge (“vampire”) after the engine is turned off. And you can check the battery charge on-board computer "Comfort-X15", which calculates the parameters of the voltage drop with the headlights on and off.
Train, grandma
The times when the battery was cherished like the apple of an eye are a thing of the past. Today, many are "not worried", but simply buy a new one in return. But to organize proper battery care is not so difficult: once every six months to maintain and "train".
A hydrometer - to control the density of the electrolyte, a glass tube - to determine its level in banks, soda - to neutralize traces of acid between the battery output pins and reduce self-discharge. It is convenient to turn off traffic jams with a coin
A hydrometer - to control the density of the electrolyte, a glass tube - to determine its level in banks, soda - to neutralize traces of acid between the battery output pins and reduce self-discharge. It is convenient to turn off traffic jams with a coin. A hydrometer - to control the density of the electrolyte, a glass tube - to determine its level in banks, soda - to neutralize traces of acid between the battery output pins and reduce self-discharge. It is convenient to turn off traffic jams with a coin.
To do this, remove the battery, wash the outside with car shampoo, wipe it dry, remove the plugs. We check the electrolyte level with a glass tube (the required one is indicated in the instructions) and, if necessary, add distilled water. Then we discharge the battery with a bulb to a voltage of 10.5 … 10.2 V and put it on charging with a constant "ten-hour" current (for example, for a battery with a capacity of 55 A • h, the charging current will be 5.5 A). From time to time, we look at the electrolyte in the banks: if in one it boils quickly and the rest do not gurgle, the battery is faulty.
