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UAZ-Patriot

Station wagon

Engine : 2.7 l; 128 h.p. (ZMZ-409); diesel 2.3 l, 116 h.p. (IVECO F1A)

Gearbox M5 (DAYMOS, Korea)

Drive: full with hard-mounted front axle and reduction gear

Complete sets "Classic", "Comfort", "Limited"

Price in autumn 2008: 400, 000-590, 000 rubles. excluding additional options (with them - about 62, 000 more rubles.)

TOP POSITION

Something to do under the hood of the Patriot, standing on the ground, except for the power of the grenadier - a tall car! An owner of medium height will need a stand, such as a stool. It’s useful for them, folding, to understaff the car: it happens, say, to replace a candle on the road - it will help out. And so that, clutching the belly on the wings, not to scratch the paint, put in the trunk and a piece of dense fabric.

Меняя поликлиновой ремень, поворачиваем натяжитель за болт ролика по часовой стрелке до совмещения отверстий на секторах, в которые вставляем бородок диаметром 4 мм (в кружочке). Changing the V-ribbed belt, we turn the tensioner on the roller bolt clockwise until the holes in the sectors are aligned, into which we insert beards with a diameter of 4 mm (in a circle). Changing the V-ribbed belt, we turn the tensioner on the roller bolt clockwise until the holes in the sectors are aligned, into which we insert beards with a diameter of 4 mm (in a circle). Пробки раздатки и коробки передач (только сливная) показаны стрелками. Заливная под ключ «на 23» - по правую сторону, она здесь не видна. Гайки регулировки ручника - в кружочке. Transmission plugs and gearboxes (drain only) are shown by arrows. Turnkey filling “23” - on the right side, it is not visible here. Handbrake adjustment nuts - in a circle. Transmission plugs and gearboxes (drain only) are shown by arrows. Turnkey filling “23” - on the right side, it is not visible here. Handbrake adjustment nuts - in a circle. Перед установкой воздушного фильтра надеваем уплотнитель (стрелка) на корпус, скрепляем элемент с кронштейном крышки и, воткнув их в корпус фильтра, крепим гайкой снизу. Before installing the air filter, put on a sealant (arrow) on the housing, fasten the element with the cover bracket and, having stuck them into the filter housing, fasten the nut from the bottom. Before installing the air filter, put on a sealant (arrow) on the housing, fasten the element with the cover bracket and, having stuck them into the filter housing, fasten the nut from the bottom. Менять начинку шкворней удобнее по очереди: сперва, скажем, снизу, уменьшив люфт вдвое, а затем сверху, сведя его на нет. Тогда кулак относительно поворотного шара почти не уйдет. Changing the filling of the pivots is more convenient in turn: first, say, from below, reducing the play by half, and then from above, reducing it to nothing. Then the fist with respect to the pivot ball will hardly go away. Changing the filling of the pivots is more convenient in turn: first, say, from below, reducing the play by half, and then from above, reducing it to nothing. Then the fist with respect to the pivot ball will hardly go away. При замене задних колодок внимательно осматриваем пыльники цилиндров. Их разбухание - слабое место УАЗов: на подопытном, например, передний уже не жилец. When replacing the rear pads carefully inspect the anthers of the cylinders. Their swelling is the weak spot of UAZs: on the experimental subject, for example, the front one is no longer a tenant. When replacing the rear pads carefully inspect the anthers of the cylinders. Their swelling is the weak spot of UAZs: on the experimental subject, for example, the front one is no longer a tenant. Скоба прижимной пластины колодок переднего суппорта несимметрична, короткая часть должна быть снаружи! Болты крепления покройте перед установкой антипригарной смазкой. The bracket for the pressure plate of the front caliper pads is asymmetrical, the short part must be outside! Coat the mounting bolts before installation with non-stick grease. The bracket for the pressure plate of the front caliper pads is asymmetrical, the short part must be outside! Coat the mounting bolts before installation with non-stick grease. Для доступа к правой фаре надо снять воздушный фильтр и патрубок забора воздуха. Собрать их потом воедино непросто: то хомут соскакивает (стрелка), то гофр сминается. To access the right headlight, remove the air filter and the air intake pipe. Then it is not easy to assemble them together: either the collar jumps off (arrow), then the corrugation collapses. To access the right headlight, remove the air filter and the air intake pipe. Then it is not easy to assemble them together: either the collar jumps off (arrow), then the corrugation collapses. Для доступа к лампам в левой фаре снимаем бачок ГУРа, затем отводим в стороны защелки крышки. Последняя чуть несимметрична, смотрите внимательно! To access the lamps in the left headlight, remove the power steering reservoir, then we remove the latch latches to the sides. The latter is slightly asymmetric, look carefully! To access the lamps in the left headlight, remove the power steering reservoir, then we remove the latch latches to the sides. The latter is slightly asymmetric, look carefully! Для замены ламп в фонарях снимаем лючки в обивке багажника. Проблема лишь одна: снаружи не разглядеть, что пистоны составные (надо сперва вынуть грибок), отчего их часто ломают. To replace the lamps in the lanterns, remove the hatches in the trunk trim. There is only one problem: you can’t see from the outside that the pistons are compound (you must first remove the fungus), which is why they are often broken. To replace the lamps in the lanterns, remove the hatches in the trunk trim. There is only one problem: you can’t see from the outside that the pistons are compound (you must first remove the fungus), which is why they are often broken. Лючок салонного фильтра закреплен саморезами под шестигранник «на 3». Ставя бардачок, сначала заводим нижнюю часть в окно панели и только потом - крепеж. The cabin filter hatch is fixed with self-tapping screws for the hexagon “3”. Putting the glove compartment, first we wind the lower part into the panel window and only then - fasteners. The cabin filter hatch is fixed with self-tapping screws for the hexagon “3”. Putting the glove compartment, first we wind the lower part into the panel window and only then - fasteners.

On the ZMZ-409 engine there are individual ignition coils, which we remove by unscrewing the nuts “by 10”. The turnkey candles themselves are “16”, but the “21” key is embedded in the standard tool kit! For this discrepancy, we lower the rating. By the way, if the extension cord to the “candle” is longer than 200 mm, then it will not creep under the visor of the front shield. It’s still possible to unscrew the candle from the fourth cylinder with it, but it will not be easy to return it to its place: the tool is skewed, threatening to break the thread in the block head.

To replace the air filter with a “12” key, we unscrew the bolt of the band clamp that secures the pan-case to the bracket on the mudguard. Not very convenient - the collar strives to slip away. You have to dive under the hood and support it with your hand (which is very difficult - it’s painfully tight layout). Having overcome this stage, we open the worm clamp, remove the corrugated pipe to the collector and, slightly raising the case, disconnect the air intake pipe. With the “17” key, we unscrew the nut at the bottom of the pan, remove the lid with the element and, finally, the element itself, unscrewing another nut on the hairpin of the L-shaped paw.

Before installation, we put a heat-shrink tube on the tape clamp, and wrap, for example, adhesive tape, on the outer surface of the barrel in contact with the bracket of the mudguard. Now these parts will not be scratched, and therefore, will rust ahead of time. Putting the case in place is extremely inconvenient: on the one hand, you need to get into the tape clamp, which in addition should cover the bracket, and on the other, put the air intake pipe on. It turns out far from the first time, because the case has to be submitted in different directions, alternately suffering “defeats on the flanks”.

Replacing bulbs in the right headlight is just as troublesome. If you get close to the indicator, at least, then access to the main and dipped beam is blocked by the filter housing. With the left headlight, there are also difficulties - the GUR tank interferes. Having unscrewed the two bolts, we take the tank to the battery and only then we unfasten the latches of the headlamp cover and get to the lamps. At the same time, check the level and condition of the oil in the tank. Replacement is not provided for in the regulations, but if the liquid smells of burning or darkens much, it is better to update it.

Changing the engine oil filter has become more convenient: on a car that meets Euro III toxic standards, they put another intake manifold, which is somewhat more compact and does not interfere. However, the air conditioning tubes still pass very close to the filter - they are damaged by a pair of trivia pullers. However, usually the filter comes by hand.

POSITION BOTTOM

To drain oil from the engine, a lift or a ditch is not necessary - you can unscrew the plug on the crankcase with the “15” key from your knees. From the same position, we change the belt of the mounted units, having previously removed the front mudguard - two bolts and two self-tapping screws. We put the same “15” key on the roller bolt and, tightening it, that is, turning it clockwise, weaken the belt tension, and then we insert a pin, for example, a nail or barbs with a diameter of 4 mm, into the hole of the tensioner. It remains to remove the old belt, and put the new one on the pulleys in the same way and take out the pin - you will not be mistaken with tension.

Таблица 1 и 2 Table 1 and 2 table 1 and 2

To replace the lamps, the foglights are bent to the wheel the front lower part of the plastic fender and with a short Phillips screwdriver we unscrew the two screws of the headlamp cover. It is better to immediately replace them with bolts and lubricate the thread, for example, Movil.

From the bottom, we change the oil in the bridges, razdatke and gearbox. In the last - attention! - the turnkey “23” fill plug is located on the right. Do not try to unscrew a similar bolt on the left, the unit will instantly “figure it out”!

Таблица 3 Table 3 table 3

Changing the coolant, we turn out the plug from the lower tank of the radiator. Traditionally, ZMZ motors have a crane on the block, which is very convenient. True, sometimes it loses its tightness, but a new one is inexpensive. Yes, and buy it is not a problem, even in the outback.

Unit vents are often clogged with dirt and block their free breathing. At each MOT we move the caps, make sure mobility. You can completely remove them, and put on hoses on the breather fittings and bring them into the engine compartment, bending the tips down. Now you don’t have to worry about the normal ventilation of the box, handouts and gearbox of the front axle.

The same ventilation hose for the rear axle can be brought to the frame or body spar, be sure to leave slack - the bridge is sprung.

SIDE POSITION

If there is a play of the front wheels, it is time to tighten the pivot bushings. We do this at every maintenance, but the frequency depends on the operating conditions. For example, in an editorial car at 25 thousand km, both fingers and plastic inserts had to be changed. Turn off the finger nuts with the “24” key and, carefully separating the gasket from the fist, remove the washers. Next, you will need the original "king pin adjustment 3160-2304 108173" (130 rubles). We made “23” similar to the impact head, grinding off the excess on emery and leaving two diametrically opposite antennae with a width of 9.5 mm. It’s more convenient to work this way, because you can put a ratchet on it, securing yourself a lever at any convenient point, and only the knob with the angle of rotation of the handle is a multiple of 180º is mounted on the “original”.

Таблица 4 Table 4 table 4 Продолжение Таблицы 4 Continuation of Table 4 Continuation of Table 4

The tool on the arm is already half the battle, because the moment necessary for stragging the bushings can reach 30 kgf.m! To simplify the task, tap on the finger in the axial direction, but carefully so as not to jam the thread, for example with a hammer with a soft hammer. Having turned out the bushings, we take out and carefully examine the fingers. If their hemispheres in corrosion ulcers, we change. Next, with a suitable hook, we pry off the remnants of the old liners and remove them with pliers with narrow lips. We assemble in the reverse order, without forgetting to put grease. The plant recommends LITOL-24, but, in our experience, SHRB-4 is not bad (or even better).

When tightening the bushings, it is important to ensure the same distance from the mating planes of the washers to the pivot ball in the absence of play. To top it off, tighten the finger nuts with a torque of 8–10 kgf.m.