As you know, nowhere without a guarantee is nowhere - and the longer it is, the more prestigious. Everything is in order with the terms of Accent - the plant promises to be liable for three long years (or 100 thousand km) from the moment of purchase of a car. Only “minor” exceptions spoil the picture: on shock absorbers, stabilizer struts, rolling bearings, ball joints of the suspension and steering, drives (CV joints), an audible signal, as well as on systems - fuel, air conditioning, exhaust, lighting - the warranty period is limited in total 12 months or 20, 000 km. And for drive belts, a clutch plate, gaskets (except for the cylinder head), oil seals, anthers, electric motor brushes, including the starter and alternator, as well as hoses, pipes, stabilizer bushings and silent blocks, the guarantee does not apply at all!
But you have to pay for such selective care. The key condition of the contract is the mandatory implementation of scheduled maintenance (of course, at the expense of the owner). After thinking about the benefits of such custody, many decide to take care of the car in their hands.
Change the oil in the engine of labor will not be - there would be a ditch or overpass nearby. Protection of the crankcase can not be removed - in the standard technological holes are provided. However, if the filter does not go by hand, you will suffer with a puller - cutouts are not designed for a special tool.
Just change the air filter: unfasten the four latches of the housing cover and raise it. The corrugation can not be disconnected from the throttle assembly; its flexibility to remove the cover is enough.
Replacing the fuel filter is more difficult. He is hidden behind the hatch under the back seat. By pressing on the two clips, we raise the pillow and, for greater convenience, props it up. Since the hatch to the body floor is glued to the sealant, carefully cut it with a knife with a short blade (so as not to cut the wiring behind it). Then we remove the terminal of the electrical connector from the gasoline pump or its relay from the fuse box under the hood (it is closer to the battery) and crank the crankshaft with a starter two to three times for 5-7 seconds. If the engine starts, we wait until it dies. Now there is no pressure in the line and it is possible by pressing on the latches to unfasten the hose ends from the filter. We act carefully so as not to lose the sealing ring from the connector and not to break off the plastic fittings on the gasoline pump. It’s better to take it as a rule: change the filter in a warm garage or in the warm season, as in the cold plastic becomes brittle.
If the fitting is still broken, do not rush to buy the pump assembly. A separate flange is supplied to the spare parts (part 31112–25000, costs 100 rubles), for the replacement of which it is necessary to remove the pump from the tank. Then we disconnect the internal fuel line from the flange by turning the circlip in the direction of the arrow (cast on the flange). At the same time, since the pump is in our hands, we clean the grid of the fuel receiver.
To replace the spark plugs, unscrew the three bolts securing the decorative engine cover and pull off the wire ends (do not pull on the wire!). A cheap tool with a flexible joint is best left aside. If there is a skew, it will not be easy to remove a piece of the insulator from a deep and narrow candle well. It is wiser to use a special head for a conventional wrench.
When replacing the timing belt, the most difficult thing is to unscrew the bolt of the crankshaft pulley. Sometimes pressing the brake with the 4th gear engaged to “break” the bolt is not enough - the clutch slips. Yes, and the load on the box in this case is large, so it is better to visit the nearest tire fitting and unscrew the bolt with a wrench with an impact mechanism, then slightly tighten it again to get to the place of repair. Some call for help "standard power tool": firmly resting the key, for example, in the suspension arm or in the spar, a couple of times for one to two seconds, turn on the starter. The method is effective, but dangerous: if the key breaks - it’s a disaster, so it’s worthwhile to “measure seven times”. On “twin-shaft” motors, the belt rotates only the right shaft (from the pulley side), the left one is driven by a separate chain. Change the tension roller necessarily!
In tire fitting, "Accent" often tear wheel studs. Keep in mind that on cars after restyling they are different, from KIA-Rio (part O K993 33 062B). To replace the front wheel, unscrew the single lower brake caliper bolt and suspend it on the suspension spring. We turn off two bolts of the brake caliper, two screws securing the brake disc to the hub (an impact screwdriver will be required), remove the disc and knock out the chip pin. To insert a new one, slightly bend the brake mudguard (do not forget to straighten it later!). We press the stud with a standard nut through the spacer sleeve. On the rear wheel - easier, you just need to remove the brake drum. By the way, wheel nuts are suitable for Moskvich-412, 2140 - it’s easier to find such ones in the outback.
When replacing the front pads, we clean their bed in the bracket and put the anti-skid pads in place. We assemble the rear brakes with a special nut fully screwed into the spacer bar (construction, as on the Moskvich 41st). We adjust the preload of the hand brake with it: during installation, the drum should sit on the pads tightly, but by hand and only lightly touch the pads during rotation. The adjusting nut of the hand brake in the passenger compartment must first be fully disengaged. It is not difficult to get to it - we push forward the front seats to the stop and turn off the two screws on the back of the lining of the floor tunnel. Adjusting rod with nut - under the mat: set the “number of clicks” with it. We do this last, when preload is already set on both wheels.
It is surprising that the plant offers for sale cars without a cabin filter, even in a complete set with air conditioning. To correct the omission, open the "glove box", squeeze its sides to the limiters pass through the opening in the instrument panel and fold down. A vertical hatch appears with one of the heater rods fixed to it. First, remove the traction from the hatch up, release the shell fasteners and remove the cable tip ring from the flap lever. Then we take the cable to the side and remove the hatch. The cabin filter consists of two elements: first we put the lower one in the bed (with the trapezoidal groove up), then we insert the upper one, with the return groove down. The main thing is not to confuse the air inlet and outlet, for this there are arrows on the side surface of the filters.