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The Ghost Of "Opel"

2024

Video: The Ghost Of "Opel"

Video: The Ghost Of
Video: Opel Adam 2012 - cлайд с Александром Михельсоном 2024, March
The Ghost Of "Opel"
The Ghost Of "Opel"
Anonim
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There are several reasons for the assault. Firstly, the design is well studied, therefore, information on sores and methods of their treatment is abundant. Secondly, there are no problems with consumables, neither with body iron, nor with units - there are a lot of dealers in spare parts for the “Uzbek”. Prices are stable, in different stores they differ by 5-7%. It is unlikely to save on non-original spare parts - their cost is slightly lower. Thirdly, a 5-year (or 100 thousand km) car warranty is conditional. It does not apply to paintwork, anticorrosive glass, glass (including headlights), wheels, brake discs and drums, clutch, rubber covers and bushings, wheel bearings, ignition and starter contacts and, as stated in the warranty agreement, “other similar elements. In addition, the dealer may decide that the malfunction is caused by harsh operating conditions and refuse warranty repairs. And finally, the price / quality ratio when using your own labor looks much more attractive.

ONE-TWO

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The most common operation is replacing engine oil. Getting to the drain plug is easy - there is a special hole in the protection. It is just as easy to replace the filter - there is more than enough space for manipulations (including a puller). True, if the car is equipped with air conditioning, extracting the element is not so simple - additional highways interfere. For convenience (and so as not to burn yourself on the collector), it is better to wield from below, having previously removed the metal sheet covering the power unit.

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The same thing will have to be done to tighten the drive belts of the air conditioning compressor and generator with a power steering pump. In the first case, it is necessary to get to the tension roller located below, in the second - to loosen the lower leg of the generator (attempts to simply squeeze the assembly with the mount are fraught with failure).

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Replacing candles on an 8-valve engine will not cause inconvenience. With a 16-valve, a little more troublesome: you will need to dismantle the plastic engine cover (four screws). The reverse process requires accuracy - when installing the rear left corner of the lining can touch the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator in the ramp and pull it off the fitting. There are two ways to avoid trouble - cut off the unfortunate corner or change the route by lengthening the hose.

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The complexity of replacing the timing belt depends on the configuration of the car - the presence of power steering complicates the work. In this case, disconnect the tube of the low-pressure line and drain the liquid through it, then disconnect the pressure line pipe from the pump, then unscrew the bolts (2 pcs.) Securing the pump itself, separate the belt guard from the engine and remove them at the same time (we also put them). First, it would be nice to make room for maneuvers: remove the air filter housing and the right plastic shield at the bottom of the engine compartment. Before installing a new tension roller, we cock it into the combat position by compressing the spring and inserting the technological pin into the holes of the sectors (do not forget to remove it in time, as well as pump the hydraulic booster system!).

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The pump is usually enough for the second belt, but if there are doubts about the tightness and condition of the bearings, it is better to replace the assembly. Before removing, be sure to mark its position in the block relative to the stiffeners, put a new one on the marks! This is important, since the body and shaft are eccentric - if the position is incorrect, the tension of the tension roller may not be enough (on old motors, the belt tension was completely set by turning the pump).

EASTERN Tricks

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The cabin air filter is located unsuccessfully - behind the partition of the engine compartment, in the gap between the air intake box and the fan. No wonder, because the ancestor - "Opel-Cadet" did not have air conditioning, so the Koreans attached a filter in place. To reach it, you need to remove the right wiper arm, the right part of the lining under the windshield, part of the seal from the partition, flimsy protective shield, slide the upper half of the rubber filter holder (it should not be completely removed, it is difficult to restore the structure later) and only after that take out the filter. Specialists dispense with the dismantling of these parts, but, as practice shows, the element often gets skewed, which eventually turns into an abundance of dust in the cabin.

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The fuel level sensor is also unsuccessfully placed - its contact part sticks out of the tank in the dirtiest place, while the tip of the ground wire is not protected in any way. If it rotts away, it makes sense to replace the “mother” tip with the “round” one and hold it under one of the sensor mounting screws (this was exactly done for the “cadets”). By the way, the bottom can be used as a drain plug for fuel, if, for example, you need to remove the entire sensor.

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Replacing burned out lamps does not cause difficulties - only sleight of hand is required. The only exception is the headlights, where you must first unscrew the two screws and remove the air duct on the panel of the radiator shield.

BRAKE MOMENT

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Front brakes exist in two versions. The old design often wedges (not completely disinhibited) due to moisture entering under the sealing steel cups of the guides (such as hub caps). When replacing discs, do not skimp on new cups and repair kit guides. If it came to replacing the calipers in the assembly, we take a part of a new sample, since the seat on the fist is the same, and the procedure for replacing the pads on them is simpler (no pins). But keep in mind - the pads themselves are non-interchangeable! The rear brakes are equipped with a cunning ratchet mechanism for adjusting the gap between the pads and the drum, so you will have to torment yourself with no habit. And why do foreigners not like the design with thrust rings inside the cylinders? But to tighten the parking brake cable is no more difficult than on the "frets". "Sorcerer" - there is no power regulator in the rear brakes. From the point of view of service - well, nothing needs to be done. But the efficiency of slowing down a loaded machine is worse: throttles on the main cylinder reduce the pressure in the rear circuit based on the "empty".

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