RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS
Autoglass is not just the light in the window, it has many different concerns. The main one, of course, is to provide excellent visibility. This is not a good wish, but one of the requirements of active security. Therefore, all that can prevent this - chips, cracks, wipes and dull toning - are officially outlawed.
Who does not believe will be convinced at the next visit to VET. They say, it’s true that you can disperse with controllers “according to concepts”, but I do not advise. The benefit is painfully dubious - not theirs, but your health, and even your life, are at stake.
Serves glass and another form of security - passive. Its norms indicate that the windshield, for example, should not fall out of the opening, protecting the crew until the last. Lateral and back, on the contrary, are obliged to crumble into small pieces, opening the way for evacuation. Here, by the way, is another argument against the tint film - it prevents the destruction of glass.
And finally (do not believe it!), Glued glass is an important part of the supporting body structure! Here, in contrast to the rubber seal, it does not fidget horribly, but strengthens the opening, preventing it from breathing too much on irregularities.
The additional load, alas, affects the survivability - even a small chip is fraught with a hefty crack. However, if you do not pull, minor damage can still be treated on an outpatient basis.
Obviously, it is desirable to keep the spare part so valuable (in all senses) intact as long as possible. Of course, not everyone is given to dodge the low-flying stone, but much is still in our hands. The rules are quite simple: to avoid a contrast shower (do not pour glass with hot water in the cold and icy in heat), replace the wiper blades in time, do not skimp on the “washer” and avoid abrasive polishing of the surface - you are provided with diopter lenses! Unfortunately, these measures are not a panacea - ultraviolet, acid-base smog and road dust still eat up a considerable amount of transparency over time. For those who want to see where they are going, the main glass should be periodically updated - with intensive use every three to four years.
POINT OF VIEW
Realizing the need for replacement, the first thing you need to find a decent spare part. For domestic auto glass at a reasonable price, there is no shortage for a long time. It is almost as easy to find a triplex for a popular foreign car, but the cost of a branded product makes many seriously wonder if it is made of rock crystal.
However, you can get by with an unoriginal detail. Take, for example, glass labeled NordGlass. The three-layer cloth for them is supplied by the well-known company Sekurit, and they are given the required size and shape at Polish factories. And this is not the only glass international.
The main thing is to make sure that you have a certificate. The next step is the purchase of supplies. Retail kits come with special kits, including a string for cutting glass from the opening, degreasing wipes and all the necessary “chemistry”. They differ mainly in the technology of use. The most modern - the so-called "unprecedented." We will not delve into the essence - details in the instructions for use. Sealants with a high electrical resistance (for glass with heating or a built-in antenna) and increased hardness (for aluminum bodies) are a separate line. Do not get confused!
During installation, moldings, gaskets, their fasteners and distance gaskets will almost certainly be needed. Virtuosos are often contrived to preserve those that are, but, in our opinion, this is not a very good solution. After all, a slightly deformed pad on the go can whistle piercingly, a flattened sleeve will not allow you to correctly orient the glass, and there’s nothing to say about all kinds of disposable clips.
To work, you need a warm box (the optimum temperature for applying glue is 15–25 ° C), special tools and a bunch of pullers. After weighing the material component, the complexity and the chances of success, most owners (we are no exception) prefer the hugs of professionals.
The process of replacing glued glass looks the same. Minor differences are due to the type of material, technology, equipment and qualifications of the performers. And all this happens.
First of all, the master must take the car - inspect and fix the condition of the body and interior. Demand an act, even if the performer is “on board” - in case of conflict he will certainly be in the camp of the enemy. It is also necessary to carefully examine the glass: chips along the edges, scratches on the surface and bubbles inside - a clear sign of marriage.
It is better if the contractor offers its own spare part - there are no problems with transporting the fragile part, and the responsibility will be complex - both for work and material. Be sure to find out whether the necessary gaskets, gaskets, clips, etc. are stocked up - after gluing, the worthless piston cannot be replaced!
Shards of glass will scratch anything, but because the hood, fenders, "dash" must be properly sheathed. Just wonder if the master had to work with a machine of the same model. In professional technical centers, personnel, as a rule, have reference books (including the methodology for partially dismantling a salon) - amateur specialists can screw up.
Old glass is usually removed in two ways - cut with a string or a pneumatic knife. None have obvious advantages (from the client’s point of view) - both are suitable for accurate execution. Only in the first one is there a higher probability of cutting a “dashboard" (especially if you do not put a homemade safety shield), in the second - to rip off the opening with a tool that has come off. However, when stripping the old adhesive seam to the desired condition, the paint may suffer in any case. Then a primer is used - black soil with excellent adhesion. An indispensable tool to cover the costs of the process, even in "unprecedented" technology!
Next, the new glass and the opening are treated with an activator. Some masters confuse this operation with degreasing, using white spirit, gasoline or solvent. Since the replacement is inadequate, the glued surfaces will stay “on the snot”.
Professionals usually prefer to apply the glue itself to glass, so as not to climb all the corners of the opening. The layer should come out homogeneous, without inclusions and joints, otherwise leaks cannot be avoided! Then the glass is attached to the place, all the previously removed parts are returned back and patiently wait for the polymerization.
Time is normalized according to safety conditions - with a standard crash test, the glass should remain in the opening. The actual period depends on the properties of the materials used and ranges from 45 minutes to a day. And “longer” does not mean “better” at all!
Guarantees are issued, as a rule, for work - there are no fools to take responsibility for the fragile glass. However, serious workshops can … insure him! A civilized approach avoids squabble in contentious cases.