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Gunpowder In Bulk - In Bulk

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Gunpowder In Bulk - In Bulk
Gunpowder In Bulk - In Bulk

With a rider, passenger, luggage and gasoline, the motorcycle weighs more than 400 kilograms. And 400 kilograms flying along the Russian road at a speed of "two hundred" is a significant load on the frame. Over time, fatigue builds up in the metal and cracks form.

At each maintenance, carefully check the following components:

“Ears” of fastening the front subframe to the steering column. With backlash in the bolts securing the “spider” to the frame, the front plastic starts to jump on each bump, and it tears off the “ears” from the frame. Do not be too lazy to remove the “face” and tighten these two bolts.

Lower frame jumper. The thrust of the progression of the rear suspension is attached to it. If you get into the pits and jumps on the curbs in it, the formation of cracks and even the separation of this bridge are possible.

Steering column. “Drozd” is not Kawasaki ZX-9R, and cracks in the place where the steering column is connected to the frame do not appear on their own, but can occur during accidents. Inspect this unit when buying, after the falls also pay attention to it.

For a motorcycle that weighs (according to the passport) 225 kg and accelerates to an “honest” 280 km / h, the suspension can be safely called flimsy. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out technical maintenance with an inspection on a regular basis.

Scheduled work: changing the oil in the front fork once a season (for our roads, the optimal viscosity is 10w-Medium oil). Failure to follow this procedure entails increased wear of the guide bushings of the fork, drips of oil seals, inadequate operation of the front suspension. If the plug is “flooded”, do not save on spare parts for it. Order a complete repair kit: 4 guides, 2 oil seals and 2 anthers, all are “original”. Work on a secondary bulkhead plug and new oil will ultimately come out more expensive than the money saved on the purchase of “left” oil seals for $ 10. At each MOT, carry out running gear diagnostics in case of backlash and knocking occur, immediately eliminate them:

- wheel bearings, driven stars - only a replacement;

- steering column bearings - checking, flushing, stuffing with fresh grease, adjustment. If there are “clicks” when turning the steering wheel or if cracks appear on the clips - replacement;

- bearings of the pendulum and rod progression rear suspension: they usually appear serious backlash to 60, 000 km. A complete overhaul of spare parts (bushings, bearings, oil seals) will cost about $ 150. In this node, carefully examine the state of the pair of triangles to which all these progression rods and the shock absorber are attached. One can only be amazed that one of the designers came up with the idea of ​​making them aluminum. If possible, make exactly the same of good high-alloy steel - and you will be insured against their destruction away from home;

- Inspect rims for dents and cracks. Everything is easy enough to manage and “treat” there in stalls such as “Alloy Wheel Repair”;

- The rear shock absorber can live 100, 000 km, or it can leak at around 30, 000. If it drips, change it. Better on a product from famous suspension companies such as Ohlins, Wilbers, White Power, Penske, etc. - and you will have hydraulic adjustments to adjust the suspension to suit your driving style.


A feature of the thrush suspension is the appearance of “wobbling” (see Moto, No. 01–2005) at a speed of approximately 55–65 kilometers per hour with the steering wheel released - if the front wheel has worn rubber, and with some models (for example, Continental Conti Road Attack) the same effect may occur, even if they are worn out. It’s not worth it to be scared at all: it does not develop into full-fledged wobbling and table slapping, and does not lead to any tragic consequences - just do not let go of the steering wheel. Do not be afraid that the tread of the front wheel wears out "herringbone", and when viewed from the side, a kind of "saw teeth" is obtained. Here the physics is simple: the front wheel "is responsible" only for braking, therefore, in the contact patch, the front edge of the tread block wears out faster than the rear. If the motorcycle was four-wheel drive, then such an effect would not occur. Watch for tire pressure: rubber wears out several times faster if the pressure drops by only 0.2 atm.

As for the choice of rubber, the thrush is omnivorous: any radial rubber with a speed index of "W" is suitable for it. Everyone has different preferences - so choose to taste. Mixed sets from one manufacturer work well, where the “front” is softer than the “rear” - then it is possible to achieve the same resource of both wheels. For example, at Michelin it will be a pair of Pilot power-Pilot road, at Pirelli Diablo-Diablo Strada, at Bridgestone BT010-BT020, at Dunlop - D208ZR-D221.

The fuel filter on the injection thrushes "dwells" inside the tank on the gasoline pump. It should be replaced once every 36, 000 km. At about the same interval, it would be nice to disassemble the ramp and subject the nozzles to flushing with special equipment. Change the air filter (if it is paper) every MOT. If you bought a washable filter of zero resistance, then you will have to wash, dry and impregnate it with oil at the same frequency. Using more sticky oil for impregnation of foam filters (Foam filter Oil) allows you to catch twice as much dirt and sand than when using branded K&N oil. For people traveling more than 20, 000 km a year, washable filters are an effective way to save money.

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