In car audio, the situation is similar - without a properly organized power supply of the components you will not get a good result. Solving this problem is not as easy as it might seem at first glance.
Receivers, amplifiers, all kinds of processors require a connection to the flight system. But when designing cars, all these devices, as a rule, are not taken into account and standard wiring is not provided for this. The only exception is the connector for connecting the "head" - and even then only in those cases when your requests are minimal, and the components used are very simple. Thin wires suitable for the connector will not affect the sound quality in the best way - this applies to both power and acoustics. And if this is not indifferent to you, then you have to pull your own, reinforced wiring for the “head” - just like for connecting an additional external amplifier.
We wrote more than once that in all serious sound installations, power is taken directly from the battery - both “plus” and “minus”! At first glance, the "mass" can be taken from any "piece of iron" car. But imagine that it is not welded to the body (although welding is not an ideal contact), but simply bolted and generally comes into contact with it through other parts. Moreover, the junction of the "minus" standard wire with the body can suffer from oxidation. If you still dare to take the “mass” not directly from the battery, be careful!
In addition to wires, when connecting audio systems, you may need a lot of "small things". In order not to forget anything, it is better to just buy the installation kit (photo 1). There are many options - the main thing is not to make a mistake and choose the appropriate one for your system.
In addition to installation kits, you can also see such an accessory on sale as battery terminals, designed just for installing “music” (photo 2). Their main feature is additional sockets for connecting wires. Undoubtedly convenient, but … such terminals are used instead of the standard ones, and with a hacky installation, you can not only be left without music, but not even start the car. So, if possible, keep the standard terminals with a reliable factory crimped wires. Moreover, when installing the minimum set of “radio-amplifier” other terminals, in general, will not be needed …
WITHOUT INJURIES AND MUTUALITIES
Since amplifiers and receivers "live" away from the battery, it will inevitably require pulling cables over impressive distances - into the cabin or even into the trunk. Remember: even the most accurate wiring needs to be protected with an additional fuse (this is not the same as that on the amplifier or receiver).
On sale you can find safety blocks, the so-called "cones" (photo 3). They look beautiful, and therefore the installers put them, as they say, when it is necessary and not necessary. The advantages of the blocks include tightness and the ability to install fuses in them, designed for sufficiently high currents. But, unfortunately, among the "cones" there are a lot of fakes, so if possible it is better to get by with the checked flag fuses. It does not look so impressive, but quite practical (photo 4). If fuses are not to your liking, you can install an automatic current chopper (photo 5). The principle of its operation is akin to an “automatic machine” of an apartment meter. If the maximum current is higher than the permissible value, it does not burn out, but simply turns off (“clicks off”). Unlike a “one-time” fuse, nothing needs to be changed. If you have a complex system, you can even find a combined “machine” that supports several circuits (photo 6).
Whatever the wonderful power cord, extra meters will never do him any good. If the amplifier was next to the battery, there were no problems, but before it, as a rule, about six meters. It makes sense to install an additional capacitor in the immediate vicinity of it (photo 7).