MOT - for servicemen, the service is advantageous, since it mainly includes control and diagnostic work. And almost the only "specific" operation is oil change. Leaked, flooded - that's all. Is it really that simple?
First of all, check for yourself the timing of the replacement. Before, in the era of AC-8 (the most famous variety then) it was recommended to be guided by color. That is, until the oil turns black, there is nothing to worry about. Today, the views have changed - the principle of the washing machine is in use: if the water in the tank is clean, it means the laundry is dirty, and vice versa. This is due to the presence in oils of a huge bouquet of additives, including detergents. That is why a good oil darkens quite quickly, without losing its lubricating properties. The main cause of aging is the oxidation of the base with atmospheric oxygen. The process, by the way, is also going on in a motionless motor, which is why there is a time limit - change at least once a year!
The synthetic base resists longer than the mineral one. Hence the conclusion prompted by practice. If you are going to drive for a long time, and the car is in good technical condition (the engine does not eat oil and does not spit it out of all holes) - use synthetics or a compromise in terms of price and quality semi-synthetics. The optimal replacement interval is 10 thousand km. It is customary to say "in difficult operating conditions" - as if we have simple ones. If you decide on a mineral water, and not contrary to the recommendations of the car factory, it is advisable to cut the interval in half - up to 5 thousand km. Do not expect the momentary effect of expensive oil - you can wait for the result for several years!
The second urgent question is to wash or not to wash? If you follow the above recommendations from the beginning, flushing is most likely not required. And there will be a rerun, the term of the next replacement must be halved - a good oil will wash off all traces. Special fluids are only good for heavily running engines. Say, “five minutes” are successfully used to resuscitate podsakishennyh hydrocompensators, fully flushing oils help “remove toxins”. The main thing is not to overdo it, so that the washed away dirt does not clog the oil receiver grid. And be sure to read the instructions: after all, some manufacturers recommend to roll 200-300 km, while others prohibit exceeding idle speed. Remember - your ignorance will relieve the company of responsibility!
Never save on filters. Golden rule: one filter for one refueling. Insignificant benefits are not worth the candle - repairs will be much more expensive. The connecting size of the filter is far from the main criterion. It is important to have certain valves, their characteristics, as well as the geometric dimensions of the product. Remember how the semi-axis on the "eights" cut off the "classic" "Zhiguli" filter? If the packaging does not directly indicate your machine, be sure to check the catalog.
CASE OF THE MASTER
There are two ways to drain the oil - thanks to the “contrary to” the law of universal gravitation. The first, obviously, is familiar to everyone - to unscrew the plug in the pan of a pre-warmed engine and substitute the container for working off. The main thing is to be able to get under the car and dodge oil splashes. A new cork gasket may be needed - some designs include a single-use creasing ring.
The second does not require any spare parts or gymnastic exercises - the oil is sucked out through the hole under the dipstick. True, not everyone can recommend it. So, in German cars the pallet can be drained almost completely, many “Japanese”, alas, have a considerable supply. It is quite simple to decide - having sucked out the oil, turn out the plug. If it's dry - the method is for you. Note that the cost of the service does not depend on the replacement method, as a rule.
The filter is wrapped by the force of the hand, but it is usually not enough to turn it off. But if the master uses a sledgehammer and a beard instead of the simplest puller, he is most likely at the lowest level of professional development.
The lubrication system can also be filled in different ways. Most often, the canister brought by the owner is emptied into a plastic bottle with a cut bottom. There are two drawbacks: a liter and a half of surplus, whatever you want, whatever you like, remain on “topping up” (every fourth refueling is free), and the special gate is not the first freshness. The dirt washed off from its walls will fall into the engine, and a five-liter with a “sweet” residue will hang in the trunk until the next shift.
Much better than a barrel and a dispensing gun. The contents of the wholesale tank are cheaper, and the electronic meter will measure the teak oil in the teak (“Litrushka” if necessary, buy it in a nearby store.) By the same gun, by the way, you can easily get to the KP.
The replacement process does not take much time - 25-30 minutes. The spread in prices for work is much wider - from 150 to 500 rubles. Fortunately, there is plenty to choose from.
PRICE AND QUALITY
Probably, there is no such service in the capital where they would not undertake to replace the oil. Only they approach the matter in different ways: in dealer auto centers - with European chic. Potential customers are attracted by the popular brand, comfort of the hall and free running gear diagnostics. Oils, filters and technological washing of the body (simply, with a jet from Karcher) are always available. There are even the notorious cork rings. We got such experience with our Peugeot 206.
There is no only feedback - a blank wall separates the repair zone from visitors. Therefore, we could not find out what happened with our car for almost two (!) Hours. After the expiration of the deadline, we received a dried-up but still dirty car, a bill for 525 rubles (work), a diagnostic card and an invitation to come through 15 thousand km. Moreover, the master tried to return the used oil filter (!), Which we with dignity refused.