Impressive owners of injection cars the thought of a possible failure of the gasoline pump is in awe! Here you don’t have a carburetor, you can feed gas at least by gravity: there is no pressure in front of the injectors - the engine will shut off. But quite rarely, the pump itself is damaged. Far more often, the control "electrician" refuses. Search and eliminate the cause on the side of the road is not a pleasant occupation. We will deal with this upon returning “to the base,” for now, we will turn on the pump directly. In this case, you should hide the simplest device in the trunk (photo 1).
They took a junction block from an unusable oxygen sensor, leaving the wires on pins D and C, lengthened them by two meters, and connected the other two ends to the cigarette lighter plug. The main thing is not to reverse polarity. The plug of the carrying lamp is also suitable. The block of the oxygen sensor precisely joins with the mating block of the gasoline pump. Connect is a matter of minutes.
The device shown in photo 2 will help to check if the signal arrives at the injectors. Here, this peculiar “probe” (red) is shown together with the “injector” wiring harness of the 16-valve engine. To make it, you will need an unusable nozzle or a faulty knock sensor. We will cut off the connecting electrical part from them and gently solder the LED to the wiring (see figure) through a resistance of 1 kOhm. If you get a 12-volt diode, resistance is not required. The connector is polarized - do not forget this when soldering.
So that the diode does not hang, all of our “product” was flooded with epoxy glue, after hardening it was filed. And to make this “probe” easier to find among other tools, they wrapped it with bright red electrical tape.
When checking the ignition, a spark gap may be needed (it is dangerous to study the “spark” randomly, it is possible to damage elements of the system, such as a Hall sensor, switch, coils, etc.). The gap of the arrester should be 2.5-3 mm. The one shown here was made from a “cold” motorcycle candle with a side electrode cut off. It remains to attach a suitable “crocodile” clip to our spark gap through a simple clamp (photo 3).
