I have been friends with the magazine “Behind the Wheel” for many years and I consider it very important in my biography. Your magazine is a loyal assistant for any driver, whether an amateur or a professional. I appreciate communication with experienced, competent people who understand technology in all the subtleties. I myself am now a driver of categories "B", "C", although at one time, in 1957, after graduating from the Kaluga Veterinary College, I acquired a livestock specialty and worked at a state farm. Starting with the position of foreman, over time he became the managing director of the Tsvetkovskaya estate of the Ivakino state farm. My first car, Moskvich-412, was bought in 1984 by a new one, which prompted me to master "related professions", servicing it and repairing it. He, by the way, is in working condition today: for this, not so much is needed - a head, hands and a minimum of spare parts. And, of course, the exchange of experience with experienced people.
FIG. 1 If the upper tip of the gear lever breaks off, which sometimes happens on VAZ, GAZ vehicles, the driver is in a difficult position. Immediately replace the lever will be far from everywhere. In this situation, I removed all the parts from the lower, wide part of the shaft 1, and put a piece of a suitable rubber hose 3 in the cavity between it and the lever 2. The connection turned out to be tight, the gears shifted well. So I arrived at the repair site.
From the operations department Such an exit should not be considered a panacea - the described breakdown often indicates that the lever is "overheated" and may break again - for example, as shown in the photo: below, at the bend (arrow!). This trouble, unfortunately, is also not uncommon. We are waiting for messages from experienced!
S. NURIAKHMETOV, Bogdanovich, Sverdlovsk Region
It is inconvenient to press the front crankshaft seal on the Zhiguli - the radiator is close. I do this, as shown in the figure (FIG. 2), using the old oil seal, the crankshaft pulley nut and the mounting blades. Gradually tightening the nut and working with the shoulder blades, I completely put the stuffing box in the socket. Then, unscrewing the nut, I remove the old oil seal.
D. OGNEV, Moscow
A simple alarm scheme (FIG. 3) will help to remind you of the dimensions that are not turned off (in many foreign cars there is such a function). The main components are the sound repeater and relay 90.3747. Connect one lead of the repeater to the wire of the limit switch on the door (usually a white wire with a black stripe), and the other to the “88” terminal of the relay. Conclusion "30" to the power supply circuit dimensions after the switch. Conclusion "85" - to the "mass", and "86" - to the "plus" of the ignition switch. Now, when the ignition is off, the dimensions are on and the door is open, an audible alarm will sound.
B. REVA
pos. Yayva Perm Region
Air from the brake system can be removed without traditional bleeding. It is important that there is enough fluid in the tank - I replenish it during operation. Having put a thin rubber hose on the valve of the brake cylinder, I lower it into a transparent container with the liquid, placing it lower, I open the valve and the liquid flows out under its own weight, making air bubbles. Otherwise, the tricks are ordinary.
V. BYKOV, Kazakhstan
The TM-108 sensor, including the electric fan of the cooling system or its relay, will last longer if you turn on the diode in parallel with its contacts, but in the opposite direction (D226 or similar, for a voltage of at least 200 V).
G. NEPRYAZHIN,
