Klarus is one of the most successful KIA projects of the mid-90s, the heir to the equally popular Mazda-626. These models are so close that many of their parts, especially in the suspension, are completely interchangeable. And the quality of the Korean “original” is such that it is also ordered for Mazda - it is almost as reliable as the Japanese. The prices of used “Claruses” are very tempting: for four to five-year-olds in Moscow they ask for 7-9 thousand dollars. Most of these machines were bought in Russia, so their biography is quite transparent, and they were serviced (at least during the warranty period) from authorized dealers.
Among the advantages of the “Clarus” are a roomy interior with excellent sound insulation, a smart “automatic”, a huge trunk that hides a full-size spare wheel, folding out (even on a sedan) in the rear seat ratio of 1: 2. The bulk of the cars on the market are sedans. There are very few generalists, and they began to be released later (see. History of the model). You don’t have to pay extra for “full stuffing”: only a small part of the cars went in “poor” configuration - power steering, central locking and front windows. Most - with full power accessories, two airbags, air conditioning, many are equipped with ABS. The buyer, in fact, can only choose a color, engine and gearbox.
STARTING FROM THE SECOND ATTEMPT
Both engines of Klarus are in many respects close, including in terms of cost of maintenance and level of reliability, both of which develop more than 100 liters. with. - the tax is almost the same, and fuel is consumed equally, evenly - the difference is only 0.3 liters in the combined cycle. It is not surprising that the two-liter “fours” are in great demand: the extra 17 liters. with. never hurt.
There are no specific diseases, except for the strange algorithm for turning on the gas pump - along with the starter. Because of this, especially after a long standstill, the pressure in the system does not have time to rise to normal, and the starter has to be wasted for several seconds until the fuel gets into the cylinders. Over time, the pump wears out and the start-up may be delayed. Therefore, before winter operation, take care of the “battle” battery, and once every two to three years or 60 thousand km, take the time to inspect the gasoline pump and, without fail, clean its strainer. This will not only improve the operation of the motor, but also extend the life of the pump.
Engines live long - about 300 thousand km. The first sign of worn rings is increased (up to 0.7 l / 1000 km) oil consumption. As a rule, you can not worry about up to 200 thousand km topping up. But if the “process has begun”, the replacement of the valve stem seals will not get off - so for the time being it’s better not to touch them.
Every 80 thousand km - a timing belt replacement with rollers. The due time is taken care of by belts, and single breaks from negligent owners do not lead to bending of valves. Pay close attention to the pump for the second belt replacement - be sure to replace if there is any play or seizing in the bearing. After 200 thousand km, replacement is desirable in any case. The plant recommends updating the antifreeze after 60 thousand km.
Every year, clean the radiator cells - small ones, they quickly become clogged with dirt. The nozzles on both engines require flushing once every 30 thousand km, and only by supplying solvent - in no case on an ultrasonic stand, otherwise the cyclic flow may be disturbed. If flushing was required by the idle speed regulator, it is better to disassemble it. But a flopped throttle position sensor is easier to change, the benefit is not a shortage: TPS are the same for most KIA models.
THINK THAT IT IS NOT
So you can say about the gearbox - and the "mechanics", and "automatic". With proper operation, there will be no problems with them. In the MCP, the transmission 75W90 GL-4 is filled for the entire service life; in the Dexron II or III automatic gearbox, it is necessary to update every 40 thousand km. Clutch without problems serves more than 150 thousand km. Simultaneously with it, change the bearing of the input shaft of the manual gearbox - it does not differ in durability.
CV joints with whole anthers serve more than 200 thousand km, slightly less - hub bearings. The brakes generally work well, there are no problems with the rear drum brakes (on dorestyling machines), but the discs sometimes become sour, especially if you rarely use the handbrake: a jammed cable reduces the stroke of the piston. Do not be too lazy to clean them and protect the anticorrosive. It is better to pump the brakes after repair without pressing the pedal, but pumping air under pressure into the tank (ЗР, 2004, No. 11, p. 264) - otherwise, some of the bubbles may “get lost” in the labyrinth. Brake fluid replacement (DOT-4) is provided every 40 thousand km, hoses - as of condition.
The independent independent rear suspension is generally reliable, but if at fast bends the stern is thrown to the sides, it's time to check the silent blocks. More often it is necessary to change the transverse profile lever. Knocking is often made by worn stabilizer struts; they serve 80–120 thousand km. At the same time, do not forget to inspect the rubber bushings of the stabilizer to the body.
Shock absorbers, both front and rear, can withstand 100–150 thousand km. By about the same time, the wear of the bearing of the upper pillar of the front strut becomes noticeable - balls roll. It can be replaced separately from the support, which is very durable. Approximately 80 thousand km there is a knock in the bearings of the front suspension - they are changed together with the lever, which allows you not to worry about silent blocks.
Steering tips go on 100-150 thousand km. This run often causes a slight backlash in the engagement of the steering mechanism, or even flow through the oil seals. In principle, the play is removed by adjustment - provided that this does not cause the mechanism to bite at large turning angles. Therefore, it is necessary to check the free rotation with the engine turned off or not to touch the unit at all. With a strong backlash or leak, the rail is changed. New oil seals help for a short while - after all, the shaft is usually worn out. If you buy a car, the signs of rail repair should be alerted - this will not last long.
Faults in electrical equipment are few - mainly due to rotten contacts. When buying, it is worth checking the serviceability of the trailer door, the tailgate, all the windows. The latter soured from long stagnation (usually on the left rear door). For the first time, disassembling the door helps and a neat but solid blow to the motor housing.
Check and sound signals - often after two or three winters the contacts are driven away. Their friendly silence is also caused by a break in the coil spring unit. He is the first suspect of a malfunctioning airbag lamp.