Category: New cars

Beauty Recipe


Video: Beauty Recipe

Video: Beauty Recipe
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Beauty Recipe
Beauty Recipe


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Long behind a dark, slushy time. It's time to remember what color your car is, and at the same time tidy up the smoky interior. If you do it yourself, it will be much cheaper than with professionals. And warming up for an hour and a half or two will not hurt.


We begin cleaning with an external sink. First, pour the car shampoo into the bucket, then water - this way the components mix better. The temperature of the composition is controlled with a finger: if tolerant - everything is in order. Otherwise, you have to wait until it cools down. Heat stroke paint is useless. The lower limit is not limited, but hands freeze in ice water, and the “chemistry” is less active.

They say good shampoos foam very much. Indeed, stability of foaming is important to them. On the car body, the foam acts as a lubricant that prevents the formation of scratches, and holds surfactants (surfactants), special cleaners and waxes throughout the wash. When using high-quality car shampoos, a wax protective layer remains on the surface of the body.

It is better to wash with a special sponge with large pores. Solid particles, falling through them, do not scratch the paint. Dense household foam is not good. Another option is a brush. And also not easy. Her bristles, unlike, say, from the shoe, shag at the ends. Then rinse the body with plenty of clean water and wipe it. The latter is not necessary, but a car that has dried in the sun will probably be covered with whitish spots and stains. The salts dissolved in water are to blame (unless, of course, you use distilled). Moisture evaporates, and the residue remains on the paint.

So it’s better to work with suede. It absorbs water perfectly, leaves no fibers and polishes waxes. The result is pleasing to the eye. There is no trick in this - wiping the body, you simultaneously even out the wax layer. From a cleaned smooth surface, rays of light are reflected in parallel, creating a radiance. True, natural suede is expensive - it is more profitable to use synthetic. Although it is cheaper, it serves no less and no worse. I will share one more secret. An old washed-washed terry towel (or napkin) is also suitable. During this time, surfactants are washed out of the fabric, which are introduced into the material during the weaving process. A new towel with surfactants will leave stains.


Having washed away the dirt, we will evaluate what we found. Over the years, the top coat is destroyed. It is saturated with dirt, covered with a network of microcracks - the paint fades. If you hold on the surface with your hand, you will feel roughness.

To restore shine, we use Color Back or Anti-Scratch-Restorer color reductants. There are few protective components in them, but thanks to the ultra-thin abrasive and high-speed cleaners, they cope well with grinding. Reducing agents easily remove oxidation (a dull, rough, thinnest layer of paint or varnish), restore true color and gloss and, thus, prepare the surface for applying a protective wax polish. The universal group of “Anti-scratches” paste belongs to the same group of reducing agents. She, without damaging the paint, completely polishes the scratches, of course, if they are not up to the ground. The only thing that is required after this is to protect the former defective place with any wax polish.

Unfortunately, often a scratch or chip reaches the soil or metal - it makes no sense to grind the paint. So damage must be hidden. We fill it with a wax tinting pencil, and then process it with a color-enriched (containing the pigment of the desired color) polish from the same set.


If the paintwork is slightly oxidized, but only slightly rough and still shiny, immediately after washing and rubbing, you can proceed to protective polishing. To do this, use colorless or color-enriched polishes to mask micro-scratches. Thanks to the wax included in the composition, they level the surface, fill microdamages, forming a stable protective layer. The grain of microabrasive powder polishes is so small (0.7 microns) that it is more likely to iron than scratch, this process is absolutely safe for any type of paint coatings. For comparison: the average particle size of dirt on the body - 50-150 microns. The cleaning properties of some preparations directly depend on the degree of pressure during polishing.

If the car is new, additional measures to remove or mask surface defects are most likely not needed. You can immediately apply a protective layer. To do this, use a non-abrasive gloss preservative such as Gloss Guard. The product forms a polymer protective coating, which saves the paint from the harmful effects of the environment, including ultraviolet radiation. Durable, slippery film actively repels dirt. On older cars, a gloss preservative is used to further protect the surface already treated with any wax polish.

In any case, the sequence is as follows: shampoo, color restorer, polish and, for added protection, a gloss preservative. The method of application of all drugs is the same: applied, allowed to dry, polished. Validity is determined visually. As soon as moisture on the surface of the body has ceased to collect in droplets, it is time to repeat the treatment.


External plastic (for example, unpainted bumpers) is usually porous, and conventional preparations are ineffective here. The dirt cannot be mechanically removed from the recesses; therefore, the principle of its chemical substitution is used, for example, with Trim clean. Then, a tool containing pigments is used, which is reflected in the name (“Black Chrome”), but the general principle also applies here - we clean and cover it with a protective layer.

The main enemy of the wheels is “brake dust”. It does not just settle on the surface, but “burns through” a layer of paint and is sintered with the base. If the process has begun, only re-coloring will help. But if you use a special polish with novya, you can save on expensive operations, which is especially true for cast and forged products.

Bringing a marafet, for completeness, it is worth taking care of the tires. Any universal cleaner for vinyl, plastic and rubber can easily cope with the dirt on the sides. But here, without protection, the effect will be one-time. True, preservatives for rubber are almost never found. But the combined means (cleaner + preservative) - in abundance. Only the tires will not add durability to tires. The whole process - solely for the sake of beauty.

Now let's count. Professional washing, restoration polishing and dry cleaning are expensive - from $ 200 and above. Kit for self-processing - $ 30-50. For a medium-sized car, some bottles will last at least six to seven sessions. Twenty others. It turns out that the savings, with a comparable result, are 20-fold. This is if you do not take into account labor costs. Although, bring your favorite car in almost pristine form, not a job - a pleasure!

Such a polish returns true color.

“Anti-scratch” grinds and polishes at the same time.

The key to beauty is shampoo and faux suede.

Gloss preservative - maximum polymer protection.

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