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Category: Test drive

Audi 100 After 200 Thousand

2024

Video: Audi 100 After 200 Thousand

Video: Audi 100 After 200 Thousand
Video: AUDI 100 за 40 000 т.р. (Помойка или все еще машина?) 2024, March
Audi 100 After 200 Thousand
Audi 100 After 200 Thousand
Anonim

OPERATING EXPERIENCE

Through the eyes of the owner

"AUDI-100" AFTER 200 THOUSAND

This car, released in 1984, I bought in Moscow two years ago for five thousand dollars.

On the odometer was 175, 000 km, now - more than 230 thousand.

Alexey SAMOILOV

General impression. "Audi 100 SS" with a "44th" body is an amazing car: well-suited for long trips, quite dynamic and economical, easy to repair and operate, reliable.

The main problem of the owners of used cars, it seems to me, is the lack of inexpensive service. What is being offered to us today is a pure lottery. I saw with my own eyes a "specialist" who in a garage was hammering out the Honda valves bent from hitting a piston, saying: "Why, there are 12 of them for 100 thousand, but they don’t sell them in pieces - only in a set." God save from such a craftsman! You can’t get into a branded service with its prices either - it’s not for old cars.

Fortunately, I am completely free from this problem - I do everything myself and, believe me, I enjoy it. Audi is a very maintainable machine: everything is unscrewed, new parts (unlike domestic ones) do not need to be customized, and they really work like new ones. Of course, their prices are one and a half to two times higher than ours for domestic cars, but the mileage completely pays for the costs.

There is also a large selection of used parts - without a guarantee, but among them there may be very good ones. Finally, there are spare parts from domestic cars that are suitable for foreign cars, sometimes after minor modifications. But here I must warn newcomers - the quality of our spare parts sold in the markets is sometimes very low, so in another car, often heavier and more powerful, troubles are possible.

There are many literature on maintenance and repair, but some publications (possibly due to the quality of translation) contradict each other and do not correspond to the described vehicle. So, in the books on the “Audi 100” with the “44th” body about the Keihin carburetor, it is said that the fuel level in the float chamber is not regulated. Mistake - it is perfectly regulated, not only by the usual bending of the float, but by rotation of the needle valve seat. And the great thing is that you can do this outside without taking apart the carburetor.

One more example. In one very solidly published book it is written that the 093 gearbox installed on my car has a third (not to mention fourth and fifth) gear with a gear ratio less than one, that is, already “increasing”. Wrong, of course.

Engine. Five cylinders, volume - 1.9 l, AI-95 gasoline, actual consumption: on the highway - 7.5–8 l, in the city - 10–11 l (I repent, I like to press the pedal); Texaco 5W-40 oil - synthetics, consumption - about one liter from replacement to replacement (10-12 thousand km). After the transition from mineral oil to synthetic (or maybe it's just the time), an oil leak appeared through the camshaft oil seal and the oil pressure sensor (more precisely, its diaphragm). Recently replaced the oil seal - now the oil consumption should decrease.

The only problem was the power system. First, the engine stalled at traffic lights or after idling for a long enough time. It was possible to start it 30 minutes after the nth attempt. Then, as the car stood for 20-30 minutes in the sun, terrible jerks began. At random, he replaced the gas pump, and it all went away.

Then the engine refused to start in the morning without 30-50 “cubes” of gasoline poured directly into the carburetor diffuser. Regulated starting gaps and the "automatic" start-up-heating - to no avail. Replaced the gasket under the carburetor and … again, everything went.

Then there was a failure in the transition from idle to high. He struggled for three months - at least five times he tried to adjust the carburetor accelerator pump, and eliminated the defect by replacing the thermostat and the fan on sensor. Moreover, he did this, eliminating another defect - engine overcooling and, as a consequence, the heater’s inefficient operation.

When adjusting the valves, I used VAZ (from the G8) adjusting washers, and no special devices (!) Were required. Also from VAZ a sensor for turning on a fan is suitable; True, it works at a lower temperature - by 10–15 ° С.

I would like to pay special attention to the timing belt of the timing gear drive. In the event of its breakage, the pistons must reach the valves. Therefore, it is better to replace the belt immediately after buying the car. It is not very expensive (approximately $ 20–25), the work is quite simple. By the way, you can immediately verify the correct installation of the valve timing, the condition of the oil seals on the camshaft and crankshaft, the pump, the alternator and power steering belts.

I also advise you to carefully inspect the electrical wiring in the engine compartment, especially the wires to the carburetor. It passes over the exhaust manifold, therefore, due to heat and time, the insulation loses its elasticity and breaks at the kinks.

Transmission. All the trouble with her was just a consequence of my illiterate exploitation. I had to replace the drive plate and clutch basket (approximately $ 250) after a long time traveling in an overloaded car. True, by the time of the failure of the parts passed about 200 thousand km.

The CV joint had to be replaced also due to negligence - with a torn protective cover I traveled for six months.

The books say that the oil in the box can not be changed during the entire service life. But according to Russian habit, I still replaced it with the 200th run, although it looked a little different from the fresh one.

Suspension. Replaced all shock absorbers (front - for $ 90, rear - for $ 70) - age and our roads made themselves felt. Here is an example of Audi's high maintainability - the shock absorbers of the front pillars are conveniently replaced from above, so the pit and special equipment are not required (ZR, 1996, No. 10 - ed.). Spring ties are not particularly needed when replacing the rear ones, if the floor under the machine is level and the jack is able to raise the car high enough.

The brakes. The most unpleasant moments were associated with the brakes. Once, on the advice of Uncle Vasya, I installed pads from the Gazelle in front of them - they fit after a little revision. But after 3 thousand km, there was a rattle, and then shavings appeared on the rim. Our linings were "stronger" than their disk. I had to put branded parts (including, of course, the disc).

Shortly afterwards, the right rear brake hose broke during emergency braking. And ahead was the Volvo 960, and both of us were very lucky - we did not meet. The hose broke very insidiously - outwardly whole, without wrinkles and cracks, it burst around the circumference at the place of sealing under the nut. Neglecting the advice of homegrown specialists, I replaced all four hoses - and ALL discovered cracks of various sizes in these places! (Judging by the experience of the author, and not only him, on old cars, brake hoses should be replaced immediately after purchase. It is no accident, for example, that the instructions for use of domestic cars used to require preventive hose replacement after a certain period due to aging of the rubber - ed.)

At some stage, when removing the parking brake, a strong click was heard and the car began to move somehow in a jerk. Having removed the rear drums, I found that due to dirt and rust, the lever of the hand brake cable on the axis near the shoe lost its mobility. I disassembled the unit, cleaned it with fine sandpaper, washed it with gasoline and carefully lubricated it with Litol.

Electrical equipment was not a hassle. True, one day the starter did not turn on suddenly. It is installed from below and (maybe only on my car) is absolutely not protected from water and dirt. I had to clean and partially replace the terminals, grease them with “Lithol” and install primitive protection from a piece of the old camera.

Wheels and tires. Tires - tubeless, "Gislaved-316T" - are amazing in the summer, but they behave badly on ice and snow: the car is "reluctant" to turn into a corner and very quickly begins to bury in loose snow. Over one winter, severe wear appeared due to slippage on sandy icy roads.

Body. His condition is excellent. The paintwork has only minor operational defects. Having succumbed to the advertisement of the Tektil preparation, I decided to process the wheel arches with it. The factory coating in them was preserved by 99.9%, and the steel brush, squeezed into a half-kilowatt electric drill, when trying to clean the arches did not leave even noticeable scratches. There are small foci of corrosion on the bottom in those places that were apparently hit by something solid.

In general, the body impresses with its original design solutions. The front of the car has almost no welds - it is assembled on self-tapping screws. If you unscrew the fasteners and remove all the hinged parts, only the engine, two spars and two small corners to which the wings are attached will remain in front. The door design is interesting: the outer panel is attached to the frame with four bolts. I hope it is clear that a simple body repair is affordable even for a beginner tinsmith.

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